well biked

A wheel that is properly dished has the rim centered exactly between the ends of the axle. The best and easiest way to check this is with a dishing tool or 'dish stick." You can also check by simply flipping the wheel around in the truing stand.

As for your tensioning/truing, from the sound of it you should completely de-tension the wheel, having the spokes still laced, but no tension. Basically, you're going to have to make like a wheelbuilder who's just gotten the wheel laced, but hasn't brought the wheel up to tension.

Now, here's what you need to keep in mind as you begin to bring the spokes up to tension: trueness (lateral true), roundness (radial true), dish, and your target max tension for the driveside spokes (rear wheel)/brake rotor side (front wheel). When finished, as already mentioned in the thread, the spokes on the higher tension side of the wheel should be tensioned to within about 10% of each other.

The most important thing to remember is this: you need to work incrementally and in such a way that you're not ignoring any of the elements I listed above as you bring the spokes up to tension. It isn't rocket science, but you will NEVER achieve a good build if you don't monitor all the elements I mentioned as you bring the wheel up to tension. The spokes on the nondrive side (rear)/non-rotor side (front) will never reach your target max tension if you do this right.

Oh, and stop ending nearly every sentence with "lol." There's nothing funny about any of this. Wheel building is a grim, serious business.........

Read this, too. For your immediate purposes, skip down to Initial Spoke Adjustment and go from there. For your front wheel, think of the rotor side of the wheel when Sheldon says "freewheel side."
http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html