Originally Posted by
Amoxicillin
.. On the back of the brakes, there is usually a small plate with holes in it. These mate a pin on the fork side.
Almost, but the other way around. The plate with the holes is on the fork, and the pin protrudes from the brake arm assembly.
Originally Posted by
Amoxicillin
.. Depending on in which hole the pin sits after re-assembly, the brake arm will have a different angle....
Sort of. Which hole you pick decides the return springs preload, which together with brake wire and brake pad adjustment determines the angle of the brake arm.
There's usually also a screw somewhere down by the base of the brake arm to fine-tune the return spring tension with. Some brakes have it on both sides, some only on one, on really low- end stuff it might be missing entirely.
If the lazy side has a screw, turn it in. If that doesn't help, turn the screw out, then move the pin one hole up and try again.
If the eager side has a screw, turn it out. If that doesn't help, turn the screw out, then move the pin one hole down and try again.
Repeat in different combos until you have rim clearance and the whatever brake return characteristics that you prefer. Some like it snappy, some like it mild.
Originally Posted by
Amoxicillin
... Just make sure that the pin sits in the same hole on each side....
No need for that, and doing it that way would cancel the possibility for individual adjustment of brake arm return, which is one of the key features of the design.
Functionally speaking you're OK as soon as both pads clear the rim when you let go of the lever. Having the pads contact the rim simultaneously is elegant, but doesn't really affect braking performance.
Some people never bother resetting the anchor point, but will simply unhook the lazy spring from the brake arm, bend it outwards and then hook it back up again.