Old 01-21-10, 05:52 PM
  #17  
BCRider
Senior Member
 
BCRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: The 'Wack, BC, Canada
Posts: 5,556

Bikes: Norco (2), Miyata, Canondale, Soma, Redline

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked 45 Times in 35 Posts
Originally Posted by vsopking
Thanks to you all - The problem is in fact solved, when changing to the big front ring, the chanin is further away from the chainstay. I did not remove a link - this'll do fine thank you all.
I may find some protective foil though, just in case.
As long as you're not trying to run the drive with a strong cross chaining combination then you just cured this for yourself.

For my part when running the big ring I like to use a rear cog that is no more than 1/2 way up the cone of the gear cluster. If you're running farther up than the middle cog then you may want to consider getting a smaller big ring for your cranks that will be more in tune with your riding. And if you do get a smaller front ring then you'll likely need to shorten the chain.


Chombi has a good point as well.

Phantomcow, it is the right solution if he's riding in the middle or small ring and having to sit the chain on one of the smallest rear cogs. That implies that he's cross chaining strongly to the outside and that the larger front ring would result in using a better rear cog combination. Normally he/we could run either combo but if he's getting some stay slap due to riding in rough conditions then running a combo that is still valid from a chainline standpoint and that results in more wrap will also result in more tension from the derrailleur springs and less chance of stay slap. On top of this by spreading the contact area to more ring teeth some chain and gearing wear is reduced. Win-win-win to my thinking.
BCRider is offline