krazygl00

It is right and good that this be posted in Clydesdales/Athenas, as I've always believed that if I'm going to be bigger rider, I'd better learn to build wheels or forever be at the mercy of the LBS or whatever hack wheelbuilder I can find. Kind of akin to the philosophy, "if you're gonna be dumb, you'd better be tough". Looks like you did a good job.

Invest in a Park Tool Master Mechanic Spoke Wrench, it's worth it for building. It contacts four sides of the nipple, but more importantly, it won't slip off the nipple if you loose your grip. Consistency is key when building, and if the wrench slips off somewhere mid-turn, you'll forget exactly how far you turned it, then doubt will set in, and then you'll obsess about it. Angels and devils will sit on your shoulders, the devils saying "Don't worry about it, just give it another 1/4 turn and call it close enough", but the angels will be saying "Better to get it right the first time, loosen all the spokes and start over." So you'll have to deal with that racket. Normally I go with the angels.

Sheldon says it is not necessary to lube all the threads, nipples and eyelets, but I think it is a good idea. You'll notice less spoke wind-up, you won't have to de-stress the wheel as often and when you do, you will notice less or no change to the wheel's true. It doesn't take long to do, a drop on each thread and nipple, then give the wheel a good spin.

As far as stress relieving the spokes (or pre-stressing), I like a different way than Sheldon's. He does it with a crank arm after the third spoke cross, I like to use the plastic-coated end of a cone wrench which is nice and thin, and do it between the second and third cross, right up close to the hub flange. This puts tension on the spoke and also makes the spoke bend around the flange, conforming it nicely.