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Old 02-02-11, 07:54 AM
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rhm
multimodal commuter
 
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
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Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...

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^^Excellent, sounds like you know what you're looking for, then. A few remarks:


--As a general rule, you're better off buying a bike that hasn't been "upgraded," because many people can't tell an upgrade from a downgrade. I'm talking about bullhorn handlebars here. I don't mean they're bad; I've never used 'em, so cannot comment on that. But classic / vintage bikes didn't come with them. Any bike that has them is either not classic/vintage, or has been "upgraded" (and very likely downgraded). So when you buy your bike, get one with drop bars. Then, if you want to change them to bullhorn bars, that's your call (but I recommend you get to know it as is, first).

--at the $200 price point, you are sure to find a good Japanese bike, less likely to find a good Italian one (but then again, you might). I wouldn't worry too much about place of origin, though; local / national traditions in bicycle design disappeared over time. They were already declining by the 60's and had pretty much disappeared by the mid 70's. If you want a good deal, don't set limitations on what you're looking for.

--Aggressive geometry follows the above. While certain brands (early 80's Trek, for example) offered a range of specific geometric options (racing, sport touring, fully loaded touring) the trend has been for more aggressive geometry. Any road bike will be more aggressive than your MTB, and among road bikes the differences will be subtle: we're talking about a degree or two difference. At your price point, I wouldn't sweat it.
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