View Single Post
Old 03-11-11, 05:04 PM
  #5  
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,696

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5774 Post(s)
Liked 2,571 Times in 1,423 Posts
Removing a frozen post from a carbon frame is very different than if the frame was steel. The carbon seat tube won't take as well as a steel one to most of the brute force options.

My suggestion is to pay a decent shop to ream it out with an adjustable blade reamer. You'll have to do some prep work with a half round file to create a taper or bellmouth at the inside top so the reamer can easily pick up the axis of the seatpost and follow it down.

Most decent posts are concentric inside and out so once you establish the alignment, you can take off a few thousandths on each pass. As you near be vary careful and sight down the tube after each pass to make sure you're not breaking through one side and reaming the frame.

BTW- you can do this yourself, but you have to factor the cost of one or possiblw two reamers into the cost. Measure the current post ID, and the final ID, ie. 27.2mm and see if you can find a single reamer with the right range. Metric or inch doesn't matter as long as the size range is OK.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline