Originally Posted by
mechBgon
I suggest scoping out Park Tool's how-to info:
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help It covers how to do stuff, and what tools you'll need.
Some areas to look at: does your new frame use the same type headset, the same size of front derailleur clamp, the same brake reach, and the same seatpost diameter.
Headset is the same type, but I do need to get a new FR clamp. Seatpost dia is different, but I was able to source a used one from a friend. I'm not sure what you mean by brake reach though.
Originally Posted by
Retro Grouch
Couple of work-arounds.
The right amount of torque for bottom brackets is important or your bike will make funny noises. The torque spec is usually around 30 or 35 lb/ft. If you don't have a torque wrench, imagine a 30 pound weight hanging off the end of a foot long wrench. Tighten your bottom bracket that much.
Make sure that your cable housings are cut nice and square. If you cut your shift housing at an angle, it will self-shorten. Then every couple of weeks you'll have to continually readjust your derailleur until you figure it out and fix it. If you use ordinary side cutters you'll have to dress up the cut with a bench grinder or a file and use an awl or sharpened spoke to make the housing round again.
Ordinary wire cutters will probably make your cables fray. I always use slick galvanized cables because they solder easily. Solder the cable before you cut it and cut through the soldered termination and it won't fray. If you use stainless cables, you'll have to use silver solder to get this trick to work.
If you decide to buy yourself a cable cutter, pay the extra money to get a good one. I've been using Shimano cable cutters for over a decade with good results. There's nothing more frustrating than a cable cutter that cuts all but one cable strand.
Sounds good, I'll invest in a good cutter then. I don't have a soldering iron though.
Originally Posted by
MudPie
Toolwise (I'm mentally going thru my tool box):
Bottom Bracket Tool (if you have pic or model, we can suggest proper tool)
Chain Tool (needed to shorten new chain. And needed to reinstall pin, if not using a masterlink type chain)
Cable and Housing Cutters (already mentioned, makes clean cuts)
Crank Extractor (maybe, depending on type of crank, post pic or model)
Headset wrenches (probably not since you probably have thread-less head set).
Pedal wrench (probably not if you are transferring crank with pedal, but good to have for the future)
Cassette lockring removal tool (probably not if you are using the old wheelset, but good to have for the future).
Crank Extractor- I have these off already, because I had a shop remove the crank set. May be a stupid question, but do I need them again for install?
Pedal wrench- 15mm open ended wrench good enough?
Cassete tool- I am planning to reuse the wheelset, but I definitely will have this on my list of things to get.