Originally Posted by
Mr. Beanz
You might have misunderstood what I meant, maybe I wasn't clear.
I build my wheels, stress relieve at build, then retension my wheels after 300 miles (break in period). That's it, then I don't need to mess wiht them again for a looooong time.
I don't get changes over a break-in period and can't come up with any sound mechanical reason for them to happen in a properly built wheel with properly seated spokes, elbows bent to match the hub flanges, sufficient tension, no windup, and sufficient tension.
A half a dozen spots on the last front wheel I built were all 102-107 kgf just like when it left the truing stand 3700 miles ago in December, 2010 and should measure the same until I bend the rim or remove it due to worn out brake tracks.
If you don't avoid windup (tape flags or Sharpie dots make this possible without having the experience to feel where you have equal resistance to spoke wrench rotation in both directions) or don't put enough tension in the spokes (With Open Pros, Reflex Clinchers, and MA40s Jobst's method produced identical tension to what I'd shoot for with the Park meter, and the Park TM1 just works as long as you keep it horizontal and ease off the handle when measuring) you'll have the nipples unscrew as the twists come out or the spokes get too slack for the friction between nipple and socket/threads to prevent motion. Spoke heads that aren't seated during the build can cause problems too; some people insure against that by striking each with a hammer and punch.