Old 03-01-12, 11:52 PM
  #10  
sstorkel
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Bikes: Cervelo RS, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Pro, Schwinn Typhoon, Nashbar touring, custom steel MTB

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Originally Posted by TrojanHorse
The sensor lights do light up when the magnet passes the sensor, but maybe 58 times out of the 60 before it turns off. I may need to spend some time trying to improve the layout but it's challenging with the shape of my chain stays. If the part that sticks out measured cadence and the built-in part measured the wheel magnet I'd be all set.
Might not be a bad idea to take the GSC-10 off the bike and make sure everything works properly without it.

When you put the GSC-10 back on, the first thing to do is get the speed sensor working. Speed is more important than cadence. When placing the GSC-10, try to put it on the chainstay near the point where the crank arm is closest to the stay. Then place the cadence sensor on the crank arm.

If the cadence sensor doesn't trigger reliably, there are a couple of tricks you can try:

1) Put a piece of rubber of plastic between the cadence magnet and the crank arm, to push the cadence magnet closer to the frame. I cut up a piece of rubber that came with my Edge 705.

2) Stack another magnet on top of the first. Neodymium magnets work best. I used a spare speed or cadence sensor I had lying around from a previous computer. You can test the setup using just magnetic attraction to keep the two magnets in place. Once you're sure it works, you may want to glue the second magnet to the first to prevent it from getting lost.

The wheel size was also set to auto so I changed that to 2096 for a 700c/23 tire, maybe that will help a little.
If you're going to input the wheel size yourself, you owe it to yourself to measure the circumference of your actual wheel. I've never yet found a real-world tire that matched the values printed on a chart...
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