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Old 03-30-12, 02:51 PM
  #18  
gyozadude
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Sunnyvale, California
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Bikes: Bridgestone RB-1, 600, T700, MB-6 w/ Dirt Drops, MB-Zip, Bianchi Limited, Nashbar Hounder

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I've used Sheldon's posted 2x4 method recently on a somewhat skewed rear triangle on a Bianchi Limited 1988. It had 126mm dropout spacing that was warped just a couple of mm to the left. I spread the right about 3mm and the left about 1mm using a 2x4 about 6 ft long on the ground with some cardboard to protect the paint. Took about 8 iterations on the right side and 4 iterations on the left side to get it right. There is some elastic deformation you need to overcome. So you may need to flex a side 5mm to move it 1/2mm plastically. Each frame is different so play around at first.

But after dropout and RD re-alignment by eyeball, I used tools borrowed from a neighbour and confirmed that eyeballing isn't far off at all. And quite acceptable for riding. The benefit from spreading to 130mm is the ease with which swapping wheels and installing hubs becomes. You don't get caught in the dilemma during wheel insertions and removals wondering if the QR is too tight or misaligned or if it's the RD and chain that isn't in the proper position because you forgot to shift to the smallest cog, etc that is preventing the proper seating of the axles. It's not a big benefit, but nice to have.
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