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Old 05-20-12, 08:43 AM
  #12  
Kimmo 
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I think it's important to stress how accurate you need to be with that upper edge, and to some extent the end of the slot... I'd use a lot of trial-and error towards the end, using a wheel I'd ensured had perfect dish.

Originally Posted by bikeman715
it was put in to make it easier to line up (center ) the wheel when placing into the frame.
Um, no? The extra metal is like having one of those fugly claws, which IMO makes it harder to line up the wheel, since you have no starting point.

Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
I've heard that indexed shifting made it more critical that the derailleur was in a particular spot in the dropouts. By leaving the other dropout long, you could still align the wheel.
That's the only thing I can think of that makes any sense, but it seems like a pretty silly reason; the B-screw adjusts that distance, and the angle (from the side) the chain hits the sprockets is immaterial. As for the long dropout, what a joke! If you need it, you're better off checking your dish... I imagine these are from a time before anyone had seen vertical dropouts.

Actually, come to think of it, a frame like this makes it just about impossible to fix a wheel's dish by flipping it.

Last edited by Kimmo; 05-20-12 at 08:49 AM.
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