Originally Posted by cale

Do you have any tools? Cable cutters? For the inner cable and outer housings? A torque wrench.

The spacers are a mess. The bottom spacer, below the stem is upside down and the spacers themselves look as though they were designed to interlock when stacked. The third pic shows that they are not properly stacked.

The fork tube should be about 3mm below the top spacer when properly seated in the frame. Your picture shows the tube protruding above the top of the spacers. The stem cap is designed to maintain the headset bearing preload, as Burton mentioned. That preload can not be established unless the tube is below the top spacers and the spacers are firmly seated to one another and the fork is properly seated in the frame. I don't remember what preload you should establish but it is something like 15 in. lbs. which is just a bit over a foot pound, meaning very light. I've always gone by feel. You want the bearings to be free enough to let the fork more smoothly throughout its rotation but not so loose that the head can move up or down or side to side.

Once the preload is established the stem needs to tightened. The two bolts need to be tightened in unison. A turn on the top bolt followed by a turn on the bottom bolt, and so forth. A torque specification for the bolts should appear on the stem so as to avoid over-tightening. Check for a Fuji spec on that torque value as it is probably lower for your carbon fiber fork. This is important stuff and will help you avoid replacing expensive stuff like carbon forks.

Did you remove your handlebars at some point? Just wondering because some stem manufacturers insist that the top stem bolts be tightened (in the same opposing/unison method) before the bottom handlebar bolts are tightened.

Good luck.

PS the cable slack can be taken up by reducing the length of the cables. The cable housing needs to be shortened and possibly the cable itself. The cable housing should be cut using the proper tool so that it doesn't get badly deformed. Even using the proper tool, the housing should be inspected and adjusted so that the cable can slide smoothly. Don't cut the cable housing with the inner cable sticking out the end.

Originally Posted by mkeller234

Wow... talk about a tough crowd.

As Cale said, the cable housings have to be cut shorter to keep them from bunching up. In other words, make sure you want to keep the stem that way before cutting...going back would mean new cables. I can't really help with the stem issues, i'm only versed in quill stems.

Good luck!