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Old 03-16-13, 09:25 PM
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calstar 
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Originally Posted by MassiveD
There are two ways of looking at butted tubing. One is as a design intended to structurally optimize the tubing shape. That thinking sorta crashes on the fact that the thickness is butted, not tapered in.

Another is as straight tubing with more weight at the ends to deal with the abuse of brazing. So since you don't need thickened tubing ends for TIG welding and since you probably do need overall thicker tubing for your size of bike, perfect solution.
You lost me there. Butted tubing traditionally has transitional areas between the different wall thicknesses, is this inferior in a meaningful way to a true taper

And "straight tubing with more weight at the ends to deal with the abuse of brazing." So the only reason butted tubes are thicker at the ends is to deal with the heat/stress of brazing? Does the tigged straight gauge frame use smaller wall thickness at the ends than the butted(given = tube od)?

thanks, Brian

heres a picture of my curtlo, tripled butted OX plat(oversize and ovalized at the bb), the least flexible, most compliant bike I've ever ridden. And yes those are 700c wheels(not a bike friday) and yes I've heard all the tall jokes regarding it but I could care less, I love to ride. I designed the bike with input from Doug Curtis(Curtlo) and it was built in 1999, Wound Up X carbon fork built for me at the time. I built around a dozen frames in the mid 70s so I sorta know what will work, for me, in a frame of this size. It isn't black as it appears, but a very dark green with a small amount of metal flake.

quick garage door shot, shiplap joints on door are 7" on center exccept bottom run(for perspective)
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Last edited by calstar; 03-17-13 at 02:48 PM.
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