Old 04-06-13, 11:07 PM
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chvid
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Hmm...did you plug the motor to the black cord via the supplied 8 pin connector? There is an arrow on the two black connectors that shows you how to align them. They should be lined up. It sounds like a loose connection in one of the phase wires (the controller is optionally sensorless and will default to sensorless if there are any issues with the Hall connectors) or a problem with phase order. I would try the various permutations of the phase wires connections (three leads) (from the black cord, to the controller banana plugs). Often a motor will run with no power or haltingly or "funnily" with an incorrect matching of the phase wires. Or there could be loose phase connection rather than wrong order. (Phases are blue, green and yellow). There's no risk in trying all of the phase permutations. One of them will make the wheel run backward, or run inside backward that is, without turning the wheel itself, as it is a geared motor. A direct drive motor would actually turn the wheel backward since those are non-freewheeling. Several of the permutations will run roughly. The right one will turn the wheel forward properly. Doesn't sound like an issue with the thin red wire - the to- battery connection from the controller should have two red wires going into the connector already, as supplied. which then connects to the battery connector. I use a different connector so have to solder the thin red to the thick red. It's not a problem with thin red, if your controller is powering the throttle LEDS. Pretty sure it is an issue with your motor connections, probably the phases. Its worth having the Halls working as well - the motor is just a bit smoother, if they are used (also in the right order - same colour to same colour). I had to insert the Hall pins into the Hall connector, so the pins matched up with the pins in the other 5 wire connector (red,black, green,yellow,blue). The spades just push into the white connector, and can be removed as well with a small screwdriver pushing the "lip" flat so the pin can exit the connector. The pins snap into the connector, with the spades oriented so they go in easily, the "lip" will sort of snap in. I wouldn't bother with the Halls at first, but get the phases correct, both in the right order and no loose connections. The black connectors on the cord, to the motor, stay as is, with the arrows on them aligned. Hope this helps.

Last edited by chvid; 04-06-13 at 11:43 PM.
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