Old 08-05-13, 02:19 PM
  #23  
brons2
Hook 'Em Horns
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 284

Bikes: Mine: Paul Taylor Custom 66cm, Rivendell custom 68cm, '75 Eisentraut Touring 69cm, 68cm track frame of indeterminate origin, '92 Cannondale M500. Ours: '93 Burley Duet tandem XL. Hers: L Mercier Sora thingy

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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
looking at the Cannondale spec's, I think I see part of the problem-
http://www.cannondale.com/2013/bikes...mpact-crankset

15 ga. spokes.
For a rear wheel, 14/15 ga double butted should be fine, but I certainly wouldn't use straight 15's on a rear!?
You nailed it. I was about to post the same thing. For straight gauge spokes I would not use 15 gauge (1.8 mm) spokes if it were a heavy rider. I would use 14 gauge spokes, that would be reasonably durable on a 32 hole wheel.

Better yet would be double butted 14/15/14 spokes which are 2.0 at the J bend into the hubs and 2.0 where it connects to the rim, and 1.8 in the middle. Spokes normally break at either end, not in the middle. Having it thinner in the middle also reduces stress on the hub flange. I have had two rear hubs that failed when the flange pulled away from the hub body right at the root of the flange (granted, after many, many miles of riding). One a Dura-Ace 36 hole and one a DT Swiss 32 hole.

If I was you and starting from scratch I'd go 36 double butted spokes in the back with a tough rim like a Velocity Deep-V. That's what I have on both of my most frequently ridden road bikes. Oh and I am 6'7" and about 270 lbs and I create mayhem on bike components
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