Old 12-06-13, 01:37 AM
  #10  
Ghost Ryder
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Canada/604
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Bikes: Giant Defy with Dura Ace group, & Ksyrium SL's,Specialized Allez Shimano mixed/mashed,2011 Opus Sentiero,2008 Kona Jake the Snake,Custom built track/fixed,Stumpy Hartail,Kuwahara/ET bike.

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I don't get why you need to make another thread for something you already know the answer to.
@ this point you come off looking like a troll.



I'll just add you can go over your other thread to find the exact answers you'll get here.

Originally Posted by grolby
Look. You really don't know what you want from the geometry of your cyclocross bike. You think you want a tight, fast front end, because you like the bike you have now, and that's a characteristic of the one you have. But you have literally zero basis for comparison. It could be that you go and buy a 'cross bike with relatively high trail. Chances are pretty good at that point that you will realize just how godawful your old bike actually was. As you noticed yourself, you're not exactly getting around the courses very fast on your current bike. If you think the only change you need to improve your times is the ability to fit wider tires, you're probably wrong.

Here's the thing. For low speed cornering in cyclocross, the front end geometry isn't very important. The wheelbase of the bike is more important in how quickly you can get around slow turns. And you just don't have a lot of control over the wheel base, which needs to be a certain length to accommodate appropriate tires and position your weight correctly between the wheels. It's basically a function of bike size. For higher speed turns, geometry is more important, but doesn't need to be road bike tight, and in fact too steep a head angle will probably make the bike much too perturbable over ruts, bumps and other surface irregularities. What you want is a bike that will turn when you tell it to and carve smoothly. There are a range of geometries that will make this work.

Regarding toe overlap: normally, I think toe overlap is a non-issue that people blow way out of proportion. But on a 'cross bike, it can be a real problem. I've never put myself down thanks to toe overlap, but I've come close once or twice. Once you get used to where it will happen, the problem recedes a bit. I've tapped my front tire with my shoe a couple of times this season, but no big deal. Still, it is better to avoid it if you can.

You are way, way overthinking a subject that you know nothing about. Just go out and buy a damn 'cross bike. Even if the handling isn't ideal, it'll make you way faster than your current bike. Once you've got some experience with that under your belt, maybe start thinking about what could make a better bike for you. For now, though, stop worrying, stop writing philosophical treatises and just go buy a stupid bike.
Originally Posted by grolby
Whichever one comes in the nicest color.

Are they different from each other? Of course they are. They come in different colors.

Yes, they have differences in part spec and possibly some differences in geometry. But so what? You don't seem to have any more ability to make an informed decision on those grounds than you do based on color. So pick the one that looks best.

I mean, you should be concerning yourself with bang-for-the-buck and which the bike will fit you best. That's the real answer. But instead you're going on and on about questions that, even if you get answers to them (which isn't anyone's job - you can find info on geometry on a manufacturer's website pretty easily), would not help you make a decision. Because you don't know squat about what's important in 'cross bike geometry. That's not an insult, that's just the cold, hard reality of inexperience. Even if I had strong opinions forged from years of experience racing 'cross on the geometry of the perfect 'cross bike (which I don't), I wouldn't be able to make a recommendation based upon this question. Because I'm not you, and I don't know how you race.

So pick the bike that looks prettiest, or if you want to actually make a good decision, the one that fits you best, buy it, and stop worrying about it.
Here here!!!

Originally Posted by ljrichar
Yep. Fit is really the only thing that matters especially if you're on a budget. After that, getting a pair of tubular wheels/tire choice/pressure will make the biggest difference in handling. And if you really wanted to be more competitive you should be asking questions about training vs what bike you should buy. Engine & handling skills will save you minutes. A different bike only seconds. And this is coming from guys who have been racing longer & in higher cats than you. Feel free to disregard/not read our responses as well.
Don't bother...
"The force is strong in this one!"
Let him chase his pipe dream, while we progress in our hobby.
We with open minds, make suggestions based on experience, not just "hearsay".
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