FBinNY 

Recent years have brought on a number of problems like yours. The tubing diameter determines the throw range of a front derailleur, and chainlines have also become vary variable. So there are unfortunate combinations that simply won't work.

Before giving up, test the actual throw of the derailleur independent of the shift lever. Back off the limits, and shift by either pushing down on the lever arm directly, or by pulling the cable away from the downtube like a bow string. This is a pass fail test. If it passes, then it's simply a lever/cable trim issue. If it fails, you need to consider oprions.

First, make sure the installation is textbook, then decide how much more throw you need. If it's just a hair, you can sometimes fix it by rotating the FD so it's slightly toe out. This is a limited option and only helps in a very borderline approach.

Otherwise, your options are to bring the crank inboard, move the derailleur out a bit, extending the throw, or changing derailleurs.

Moving the crank in is obvious, so I'll let you handle that, moving the FD out can be done with a home made shim placed inboard of the FD body where it meets the Braze-on. Sometimes it's also necessary to file the slot a bit so the screw has room to move out. You can also try to extend the throw, by finding out exactly what touches at the extreme outboard position and filing away some material.

This is the kind of thing that separates mechanics, form folks who simply hang components, so decide who you are, and consider your options accordingly.