Originally Posted by
JerrySTL
I have a 3/8" and 1/2" beam type that I've used for decades.
I also have a 1/4" click torque wrench from Harbor Freight. It does a find job on bike parts. Just don't drop it or use it as a hammer. Also store torque wrenches at their lowest setting.
Pardon my ignorance but Jerry and others have recommended 1/2 wrenches of bicycle work. WHAT are you using 1/2 inch wrenches and sockets on??? I only use mine on the mowers and the tractors. 1/2"???
And given the cost of stripping threads out of components that cannot be repaired and are $$$ to replace I would not have a cheap clicker on the property. Maybe I'm a snob but cheap tools are a waste of money. I don't need top end for everything but SK, GearWrench and Craftsman torque wrenches are money well spent. And, if well taken care of, they do not go out of calibration so that's a non issue.
Oh, and remember that the bottom 10% and top 10% of any clicker are not going to be accurate. You really cannot use the first 10 or 15 ft-lbs of a 10 to 100 wrench. Buy an inch-lbs wrench to cover that lower end. Set the wrench and test it clamped gently in the vice EVERY TIME you use it so you're reminded of the feel/sound. Clickers are just fine for bike work. Ex: when I torque a BB cup I need to focus on keeping the wrench firmly on the cup, everything held in control and slowly approaching the spec. I don't want to also have to lean over to read a beam scale. Just my choice.
Opinionated old fart aint I?