Originally Posted by
chojn1
Thanks for the compliment. And thank you for the help and encouragement. I was in the process of packing the frame to send back when I got your encouragement to do it myself. Now I am enjoying this bike so much more because I contributed in building it.
Just in case anyone is considering repeating the process, there are a couple of things that I learned that were not quite clear in the posts. First, for the metal frames, you will need to cut a 5mm deep groove over about 270 degree of the eccentric. The Cannondale eccentric is the easiest one to use for this, but, you have to modify it to make sure it does not get stuck. I modified the Davinci/Bushnell model that came with my bike and so far has had no problem with structure or noise. If you use the Bushnell, make sure it is the feather light version as the original model is very heavy and is completely solid all the way around.
The second issue is the crankset modification. I am using the 48/30 set that Twocicle recommended. This is very easy to do by just removing the outer ring and replacing the middle ring with a 48t one. You do not need an extended clamp or even the FSA tandem clamp for this. A regular one will do. But, you will need five 1mm washers between the crankset and the inner ring to clear the fixing bolts of the 48t ring. The DI2 front derailleur works fine with this configuration. I also modified the rear derailleur per Twocicle using the longer cage and reverse pivot screw for the 11-32 cassette. It is working well, but I cannot say if it would have worked anyway without the modification.
Have fun!
CJ
A longer RD cage is needed to uptake the extra chain slack that results from using a larger chainring difference, re: a triple or "super-compact". The longer cage does not provide extra clearance for larger cassette cogs. You can achieve extra clearance by maxing/reversing the B-tension screw (as you have done) and by installing a smaller 10-tooth upper jockey wheel.
Regarding the chainring nut->granny clearance, some thin spacers are needed depending on the size and shape of the chainring nut head. A little judicious filing can help to eliminate the chain from catching on the nut.
A nice way to finish off your outer crank spider appearance is to use either a chain guard (search for "fsa carbon chain guard" to find on eBay @ $30), or
Race Face Crank Arm Outer Tab Spacers.
Here is a photo with the FSA guard: