standards as far as spyder dishing are concerned are rarely discussed, probably because they seldom rear their ugly heads. this may be one of those rare cases when looking a gift(ed) horse in the mouth may have been worth the trouble.
cranks designed for MTBs, with their wide chainstays designed for wide tires, have a lot of sypder dishing and many road crank arms simply will not clear an MTB's chainstays unless a wider BB is used. same holds true between road and track frames and cranks.
but it seems in your case, if i understand your problem, that a modern track crank is not clearing the chainstays on your vintage track frame, which is unusual. you might try a road crank if you have one around, just to see how to approach this problem. of course the simple answer is to put on a wider BB, but aesthetic issues aside, chainline could be seriously compromised. it's also possible, but unlikely, that the frame is not really a track frame but a road frame with track ends.
in any case if you find a crank that works, you may then be looking at chain-line problems.
the advice to post something in C&V may prove fruitful.
it should also be noted that many vintage BB's were asymmetrical as regards bearing to end of spindle distance, but before i invested in anything i would want to find out exactly what i needed to clear both the right and left chainstays AND get a decent chainline.
this is one of those rare occasions where i might seek out the knowledge of some old grizzled PITA bike mechanic that is still living in the past.
and loving it.
BTW, if you don't have the largest chainring that you will ever want to use on that frame, ON the crank while you are trying to solve this problem, you may find that even if you solve the clearance issue with the crankarm you may have the same problem with the chainring. i learned this the hard way, but i don't want to talk about it...