Old 06-23-14, 08:16 AM
  #23  
CliftonGK1
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Location: Columbus, OH
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Bikes: '08 Surly Cross-Check, 2011 Redline Conquest Pro, 2012 Spesh FSR Comp EVO, 2015 Trek Domane 6.2 disc

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OK, your reply with pix went up when I was typing, so I've seen them and here's my professional opinion:

There's nothing wrong with your aerodynamics. NOTHING.
You don't need to find a way to get lower. You don't need to drop your bars or hike your saddle or anything else.
Your back is already really flat. Your head is way down. Lift the front of those aerobars and get your forearms parallel to the ground, that will help with comfort.

Want to know what the primary issue is? It's frame sizing.
Seriously, man. You should be on a bike at least 5cm larger than what you've got there. If you had a longer top tube you could ditch that ridonkulous stem and run a regular old 8-deg negative drop at about 100-110mm. You'd be able to get rid of the Attack of the 50' Seatpost, and get yourself a shorter, lighter carbon post.

The secondary issue is a lack of understanding in bike fit.
That gigantic-assed stem and forward shift of the saddle by a similarly insane amount have done only one thing for you: Shifted your entire fit forward over the cranks, effectively increasing your ST angle. You haven't lengthened the cockpit to accommodate fit, you've just slid all your components forward a couple inches. Here's what that's done for you...
Nothing good. Shifting forward changes the balance of muscles you use in your pedal stroke. Tri-racers do it to save their legs for the run. Pro cyclists do it on TT stages on properly fitted TT bikes because it helps them get more aero. But doing what you've done on a frame which is 2 sizes too small isn't helping you.
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