Originally Posted by FarHorizon
As I understand youse posters so far, the (best) way to alleviate wrist pressure is NOT to move the seat. Rather, optimize seat/pedal relationship for best biometric efficiency and then adjust the bar length via stem reach for the desired amount of wrist pressure.
If this IS the case, then my complaint about racing geometry frames becomes even more significant. The "upright" seat tube angles on racing frames (72.5, 73, 73.5 and even 74 degrees) seem to place my body FAR too forward for best biometric efficiency. I'd be better off with a 72 or even 71.5 degree seat tube angle with my particular body. Instead, I end up having to buy "set-back" seat posts to get my most comfortable (and efficient) position relative to the pedals.
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to me that would be the best approach
LeMond agrees with you about geometry...
for me 72.5 is an okay mid-point, 72 is nice - 73 is about as far as I like to go, at 5'11" i have legs more in line with someone about 6'2".
it isn't all that cut and dry, adding in leg extension and accounting for shoes, cleats & pedals has a great affect.
jppe - you're a smarter person than I, it took quite some years, as a young guy to, realize this. And always having at least 3-4 bikes on hand at any time, it took a while for me to understand that absolute settings varied based on the frame geometry. I've also had, for some years, my 'numbers' and make sure I adjust each bike position based on them. The bikes 'perform' a bit differently, but my perceived position seems 'identical' on each. Numbers are tweaked as I 'mature'. By the time the 'fit' systems became available, I'd had some years of reaching what are good setting for me. Although, I will do a 'position' session this coming year, to either 'confirm' or maybe come to even better numbers for my current body structure. I reasonably certain my current numbers can be improved upon, and I'd like to 'start' from a complete new perspective, meaning another, different way to come to hem.