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Old 04-21-06, 04:37 PM
  #12  
edzo
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here is how to set them up: easy as pie

ps-full stoppage only occurs when they are broken in and mated to the rotor
it takes a few rides
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attach brake cable and take up slack so it just makes the arm move,
then back off so it almost does, but doesn't


loosen the entire brake caliper from the mount so it can wiggle

rotate the red dials so the fixed pad (close to spokes) is 2/3 out

rotate the red dial so the moving pad is 1/3 out and the disc is
in between. 1/3 to 2/3 is the balance where the pads should sit
and disc is inbetween...relatively.

now crank the pads equally so they grab the disc and you can't
move the arm any tighter. -now- tighten the caliper bolts.
tighten 1 bolt first, then the other. don't try to tighten them
both equally. one first, all the way...then the other. it should
self-center to the disc. no need to fuss with it much. I was
concerned with my first set of bb7's but it really does go easy....

now
back off the pads red dials quite a bit. squeeze brake. let go

now rotate the spoke side red disc then rotate wheel
till you hear the pad rubbing the disc when rotating wheel

now back it off 1 click or 2 so it is quiet


do the same for the other red dial...till it touches then back off 1 click'
so it is quiet.

the brakes are now set up properly.

THEY WILL feel like mush the first few rides if they are new, the part that
hits the disc and makes noise is not broken in yet, so they will feel soft
for a short time. this is normal. read on

never adjust the cable again as the
pads wear. only use the red dials to compensate for wear.
only adjust cable to the full arm extension length and not more than
that.

NOW
as the pads break in, braking will stink...occasionally re-adjust those red dials and you will
find the brake lever travel gets better and better as the avids break
in to the disc. they will become quite good brakes. give it some time, like 20 miles

you gotta burn off
the microscopic imperfections without glazing the pads with too much heat.

the re-adjust the dials with the 'till it touches then back 1 click' procedure.
do it as many times as they need. soon they will be rock hard, 1 finger action

break them in gently with little and light braking for 2 or 3 rides.


you'll get them sweetened. every 2 or 3 rides retweak the red dials.


you'll get serious brake performance.

the reason hydraulic brakes don't need such minute adjustment all
the time every 2 rides is just the way hydraulics work. hydraulic systems
pad wear is the same, but hydraulic pressure and travel so exceeds
cable performance that it isn't really noticable. itis noticable with cables.

to get the
same performance with a cable brake, you just have to stay on
top of the red-dial and pad-to-disc factor a lot closer. but do it,
and you will get king stopping power.

Last edited by edzo; 04-21-06 at 04:59 PM.
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