One of my favorite experiences when in Italy last May was happening upon the Mastantuoni shop in the small town of Rotondi in Campania. The entire shop was maybe 20' x 20' and they still produced some frames right there. Bikes were floor to ceiling and the walls were covered with all kinds of stuff from the three generations of Mastantuonis who are/were professional racers. I'm sure that there are similar scenes all over the country - just keep your eyes open for them - we would have blasted right past this place (it looked like a hole in the wall) if I hadn't needed a spare tube.
Enjoy Italia - you're gonna love it!