Originally Posted by there__
I test rode one of the new xtoor swift folders here in NYC. The new ones have a different shifter and rear derailleur. I also test rode the older model about a week ago. The old components seemed to "click" between the gears better. The new shifter seems to be a little "mushy" like my dahon jack. I did like the extra room on the grips though. The old model had very little room, and my hand would hang off a little on the twist grip side. As far as the drop outs, I didn't check. The next test ride I go on I'll let you know.
Has anyone else ridden the new version that has a swift now?
I emailed the guy I talked to at the shop and he said:
"They aren't better, just newer. Apparently it's the design for the new stock, and they've replaced the older style."
I also noticed a ticking felt through the pedals in the 3 highest gears when standing out of the seat. I'm not sure if the derailer just needed adjusting or something else was. Anyone have any ideas on that?
After a LONG hiatus I just re-entered the biking world with a Xootr Swift (new model) and may be able to comment on a few of these issues. Please keep in mind that I am also a novice with respect to bike mechanics (I'm trying to learn as I go). More disclaimers/disclosures: I'm just a customer (so far, satisfied). I have no affiliation with Xootr or Swift, though I did meet Peter last weekend at the NYC Folding Bike Festival and he struck me as a good guy.
First, the gear shifting. Despite a "tune-up" from my LBS when I first got the bike, I also found the gear shift to be soft and imprecise. Turns out, the tune-up was a waste of money. Last night, I put the bike up on a stand and tinkered with the barrel adjuster (which, BTW, on the SRAM is located near the gear shifter on the handlebars, NOT the rear derailleur) until the shifting became more precise. Now there's both audible and tactile feedback when I change gears (at least, when the bike is on the stand; I still need to take it out for a test ride post-adjustment).
Second, the rear wheel alignment. Yes, my bike has this issue as well, but as flyhi46c noted it's easily managed by pulling the wheel back slightly from the right drop-out slot. Post adjustment, my rear wheel is properly aligned and centered in the frame (not to mention locked on tight; it was a reall PITA getting it off to change tires), so I'm not concerned. In fact, the adjustment was so minor that you cannot tell the wheel isn't sitting against the drop-out just by looking at it because the axel bolts cover the gap.
The use of the non-standard large diameter seatpost is a real pain, because I really like the Performance Bike seatpost rack with panniers than Wavshrdr linked to earlier (I think it was on page 10), but that only works with seatposts up to 31.6" in diameter. I think I can still make it work by using a longer set of screws to attach the clamp to the seatpost. Plan B would be the Dahon-made QR seatpost, but if I use the panniers that come with it I don't think I'd be able to fold the bike.
Plan C is to use the Gaerlan rack mount adapter (toward the bottom of the
Upgrades page) and a standard Blackburn or equivalent rack, though again I'd be concerned about still being able to fold the bike. Hopefully, I'll be able to figure out a workable solution soon.
Mike