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Old 07-05-06, 01:06 PM
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Pat
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Orlando, FL
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Bikes: litespeed, cannondale

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Originally Posted by spingal
Well due to rain yesterday couldn't test ride any of the bikes, so probably not until Saturday but that gives me time to do more research. I was actually looking at the Trk 7.3FX and 7.5Fx. I still have to look up the Giant you mentined. But I know the LBS has both Trek and Giant. Is the Coda a harder bike to find? Also, you mentioned "better" components. Could you maybe explain exactly which components (why they are better and what that means) for me and how that will effect my ride.

For example in comparing the 7.3FX and 7.5FX same frame different material in fork. They both have lowrider mounts?!? Is this what you were referring to?? Different wheels and tires. 35c vc 32c..not too important? Other differences in front & rear derailleur (level of Shimano)...how important is this? Difficult to upgrade if needed later?

Also, difference in cassette? what is the difference in speed? and crank?
Sorry so many questions???? But I really feel overwhelmed with all the Lingo.
Just maybe want basics to know what each level/quality of parts is for/how important, so I can compare other bike brands. Opinion on better brands??

Notice these models of Trek also available with Mechanical disc brakes? Necessary? I didn't think so, but would like real cyclists opinions.

Asked how tall; about 5'5", so that is why salesman at LBS said that the WDS was not necessary-he also looked at my hands, apparently to see if I needed the shorter reach? and other things.

Last question, Difference in womens/mens size? I am pretty sure he mentioned something about not getting a WDS and going with a mens bike??? Could that be? Or did he just mean a regular womens? or is the womens the WDS?

Thanks for all the info
OK Spin Gal.

Bike manufacturers really do not make all the parts of the bike unlike auto manufacturers. The bike company makes the frame only. The crank (what you stick the pedals onto), deraillers (the things that move the chain when it shifts), shifters (the things you push to make the deraillers move the chain so it will shift), brakes and all that stuff are added on. Shimano makes something like 95% of all the bike components (except for some odd reason the wheels). Shimano makes components for road bikes in all kinds of price points. I am familiar with the upper level stuff like 105, ultegra, and dura ace. But I think that might be a bit more than you want. Now the difference between Shimano 105, which is entry level racing, and Dura Ace which is professional level is about 1) 4 times the price for Dura Ace 2) Dura Ace is about 2 lbs lighter, which is not a big deal for recreational riders 3) a nicer finish on Dura Ace 4) Dura Ace shifts a tad bit smoother 5) Dura Ace impresses your friends. Really, even the more moderately priced stuff works pretty well.

As to frame materials, that varies with manufacturer. I have researched a few and found that again you pay a whole bunch to lose a little weight and maybe get a slightly better "feel".

OK cassettes are your rear cluster of gears. It runs from 8, 9 or 10 gears. You can have 2 or 3 chain rings up front. So if you have a triple chain ring set up and 10 gears in the back, you have 30 gear combinations but that is not functionally 30 speeds because you have duplication and you should not use a couple because of chain line.

Brands. Well some brands are sort of generic. They mean to give you a good bike for a relatively inexpensive price. There is a lot of competition in the bike business and the local bike stores will not stock stuff that isn't good for the price. In some brands, you get more of a generic approach and in others they try to give you a certain kind of ride but at a higher cost. It all depends on what you are looking for.

The big US companies are Trek and Cannondale. Trek has for years been carbon fiber oriented and Cannondale has been aluminum. Giant has been a bit more generic (at least my impression).

Women's bikes. Men and women have slightly different body porportions. Bikes are made for men's bodies since I guess they buy most of the bikes. Women tend to have longer legs and shorter torsos then men of their same height. So a women's bike has a shorter top tube to adjust for a woman's body. However, if you are not really short (like 5'), a man's bike can be adjusted to you buy putting in a shorter stem and getting the handle bars closer to the seat. Bikes are like shoes. If they don't fit. Don't buy them. A good cycle shop will be sure the bike is fit to you.

Disc Brakes are a mountain bike sort of thing or sometimes on road bike tandems. I have always used caliper brakes and found them adequate for even steep and long descents. Also I am a reasonably large guy so if caliper brakes can stop me, they can probably stop you.

The 35 mm vs 32 mm is the tire size. It varies with usage. A light racing bike tire would be 20 mm. 23 mm is pretty normal in road bikes. I put in a bunch of miles so for durability, I go with 25 mm. On mountain bikes, having big old tires makes it easier for the bike to go through mud, sand and so on.

In your case, it is hard to tell what to get. It depends on what kind of riding you fall in love with. I mean you could end up as a mountain biking fool and go for a high end mountain bike in a couple of years. Or you might fall in love with the road and performance and end up getting a sleek racing bike. It is almost impossible to tell. I am a confirmed roadie so it is hard for me to imagine why anyone would not want to get a nice efficient road bike.
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