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The Great Wheel Debate

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Old 06-25-15, 02:55 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by vision646
Lennard Zinn Q&A on the subject which showed
Zinn has been slipping, if not in fact just wrong for a couple years now.
For all the things he is reliable about, I certainly wouldn't take his word on that topic. There are some people doing good, scientifically verifiable work on the topic, look them up on Slowtwitch or a few other spots.

There are many more variables to the test than you might think -
example, amazing tubulars installed with tape are REAL bad, but with the right gluing protocol, amazing differences abound, this applies at all levels for comparing tubular/clinchers - eg, oranges and tangerines.
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Old 06-25-15, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Hida Yanra
Zinn has been slipping, if not in fact just wrong for a couple years now.
The information didn't come from Zinn himself, I believe the chart he shows comes from here (scroll to the bottom and click on the thumbnails to see them).
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Old 06-25-15, 03:27 PM
  #53  
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So, I cracked my front 46mm carbon rim in a crash about a month ago and since then have been using a lower profile alloy rim. I have to be honest, I really don't feel much of any difference between the carbon and al wheels at any speed below like 40mph, and how often do you hit 40 on anything that isn't some sort of descent?
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Old 06-25-15, 08:22 PM
  #54  
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I usually race on 60mm wheels and where I notice the most difference is on descents and cross-tailwinds. IMO it's a big help to be picking up places while essentially resting.
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Old 06-25-15, 08:40 PM
  #55  
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Life is too short to be riding on clinchers. Seriously, tubulars are superior in every respect - particularly rotating weight. If your problem is flats, then inject 20cc (20g) of Stan's in your rear tire as a prophyactic measure. I commute on tubulars every day, and without flatting I now wear the tires down to the point where I'm looking forward to hitting something big that will allow me to get new tires.
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Old 06-25-15, 08:43 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Dave Mayer
Life is too short to be riding on clinchers. Seriously, tubulars are superior in every respect
"Unable to locate rider results."
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Old 06-25-15, 09:54 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by TheKillerPenguin
So, I cracked my front 46mm carbon rim in a crash about a month ago and since then have been using a lower profile alloy rim. I have to be honest, I really don't feel much of any difference between the carbon and al wheels at any speed below like 40mph, and how often do you hit 40 on anything that isn't some sort of descent?
You don't hit 40 in a crit?

Well I don't either, not usually.

46mm regular narrow rims aren't that much faster than a regular non-aero rim, aerodynamically speaking. The ones I used (Reynolds DV46) were light and stiff and were great accelerating up the hill at Bethel, but at speed they didn't seem very fast. That's why I went with the 60mm HEDs and now the 75/90mm HEDs. I'd hazard a guess that the spokes are more significant than the rim with the DV46, meaning spoke count and shape made about as much difference as the rim itself, based on my aero vs round spokes (same DV46 rim) and DV46 tubular vs less aero tubular (28H box, round spokes) vs more aero tubular (TriSpoke).

Now that I have the DV46s back in my hands I suppose I could do some A-B-C-A-B-C tests or something using DV46/HED60/HED75 (and add TriSpoke for good measure), but that would require a lot of effort.

If you can I'd rebuild that front wheel with a super shallow (32mm?) or super deep rim (66? or more), and get another front wheel with the opposite type of rim. Tall for flatter things for speed with no worries about control at 45+ mph, shallow for hilly things for weight and control-on-descents-over-45-mph. Heck I'll sell you my DV46s for a song, but you'd want get new aero spokes for the front wheel (I rebuilt it using round spokes back in 2006 when I broke a spoke up front).
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Old 06-25-15, 09:59 PM
  #58  
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I appreciate the offer, but I've melted the brake track on a front dv46 which caused the carbon bead to bow outward, and I'm not sure I trust that gen of rim under heavy braking.

I'm considering options for a new front rim including stock rebuild, or something taller, but in the meantime I haven't noticed the al rim slowing me down much if at all.
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Old 06-25-15, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by globecanvas
I usually race on 60mm wheels and where I notice the most difference is on descents and cross-tailwinds. IMO it's a big help to be picking up places while essentially resting.
+1

I try to leverage my big wheels to move up when the speeds are moderately high but there's a cross/tailwind. For example at Bethel in 2010 I moved up pretty aggressively just before the sprint, doing about 35 mph without going deep in the red. Yeah, slight downhill, cross-tailwind, but still, I was doing it and not many others were (no one was). When I show up at a race the first thing I hope for is a cross-tailwind sprint because then I can really leverage my 75/90 wheels. If not then I hope for a headwind sprint (because headwinds tend to blunt the super strong sprinters). Then I hope I'll be in the field going into the sprint.

More recently I used the crosswinds at Keith Berger in the P123 race to move up pretty aggressively when I had to (on my 75/90 wheels). I didn't have the legs to follow through, but I was maybe 20 guys back going into the last lap, and hoping to start to move up, with some protection, on the backstretch. My legs betrayed me but I moved up hard at 2 to go, using whatever tricks I could use to move up without using up my legs too much. I can't remember but I'm pretty sure I was at the back at 3 or 4 to go.
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Old 06-25-15, 10:07 PM
  #60  
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Quit riding tubulars in 1978.
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Old 06-25-15, 10:28 PM
  #61  
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I have a pair of chinese tubulars (vittoria corsa cx latex) and ksyrium elites. Even if there was a difference in the feel, I wouldn't really care, so long as the rolling resistance is similar, and the weight difference is small, which they are. the only upside for the tubular is that I can inflate it up to a ridiculously high psi, which helps with nothing. If I were to do it over, I would opt for carbon clinchers.

however, I do have concerns about the reliability of the clinchers. carbon fiber inherently has lower impact resistance, and the walls have been known to buckle. are the wall buckling manufacturing defects, or design defects? don't all of them have high temp resin on the brake tracks?

I want to get carbon clinchers, but the fact that carbon has poor heat dissipation worries me a little. I don't want resins melting on me on a steep, technical descent.
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Old 06-25-15, 10:38 PM
  #62  
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My understanding is that's a thing of the past. I think all the manufacturers have their resins up to snuff at this point. The DV46s I did that to were from like 2008.
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Old 06-26-15, 03:40 AM
  #63  
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I recall a recent conversation with the zipp rep (who is a friend) about samples of some pretty bad stuff he saw
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Old 06-26-15, 04:21 AM
  #64  
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Maybe Zipps are just crappy wheels? I know my LBS hates them.
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Old 06-26-15, 04:35 AM
  #65  
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I recently bought a set of older (2002?) Zipp 303 tubulars in good shape. I didn't really need them but for $300 I couldn't resist. They're not tall - looks like 38mm - so I doubt they do much for my steady-state speed, but they're like 800 grams lighter than the wheels they replaced. The resin might not be up to snuff for long, technical descents, but where I live the longest descents are coming down the far side of a bridge over the Intercoastal Canal, so they'll do fine.
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Old 06-26-15, 05:00 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by globecanvas
Maybe Zipps are just crappy wheels? I know my LBS hates them.
He wasn't talking about zipp samples.
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Old 06-26-15, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by TheKillerPenguin
My understanding is that's a thing of the past. I think all the manufacturers have their resins up to snuff at this point. The DV46s I did that to were from like 2008.
Mine are 2005. Heh. But tubulars. I used them in SoCal one year, didn't bring them back only because at 50 mph they were absolutely petrifying when 18 wheelers passed me at whatever 60 mph or something, on a wide-ish 2 lane road (descent from Harrahs, for those that know the Palomar Mountain area). However, on the switchback-laden Palomar descent (about 15? min of descending for the switchback part, 35 min total, and I was 190 lbs or more), it was fine, and it was fine coming down Double Peak and some other steep stuff.
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Old 06-26-15, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by globecanvas
Maybe Zipps are just crappy wheels? I know my LBS hates them.
I think LBSs with long memories remember the earlier stuff in terms of quality, and also they remember the rims that come in broken but not under warranty. I've done some crazy stuff with my current rims and they've withstood it pretty well.

Also my understanding is that Zipp is aggressive about placing product, you have to order a lot of stuff to get into the better price tiers. In 2010 when HED was doing the Stingers you had to do 10 carbon wheels (5 pairs, but a pair of aluminum wheels counted as one carbon wheel) to get the best price. That's the year I bought 4 carbon and 1 pair of aluminum HEDs. I'm sure that really, really helps the shop meet the 10 wheel minimum as I bought 5 wheels worth of business. A shop could order a number of aluminum rimmed wheels and get the discount at a reasonable $ commitment. A shop guy told me it's $10k? to just get Zipp? I may be off, but, still, he tossed out a much higher number for a minimum order, forget about any kind of tiered discount.

Again, keep in mind that this wasn't in the last year or two.
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Old 06-26-15, 06:11 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by gsteinb
He wasn't talking about zipp samples.
what samples was he talking about?
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Old 06-26-15, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by carpediemracing
I think LBSs with long memories remember the earlier stuff in terms of quality, and also they remember the rims that come in broken but not under warranty. I've done some crazy stuff with my current rims and they've withstood it pretty well.
People always tend to remember and comment on their negative experiences over their positive ones. You could go through 1000 wheelsets, but chances are, you'll remember the one with problems more than all the others.

A company I once worked for referred to this as the 3/11 rule for customer service. The premise was that for every great experience a customer had, they would tell 3 people. But for every negative experience, they would tell 11.
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Old 06-26-15, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by topflightpro
People always tend to remember and comment on their negative experiences over their positive ones. You could go through 1000 wheelsets, but chances are, you'll remember the one with problems more than all the others.

A company I once worked for referred to this as the 3/11 rule for customer service. The premise was that for every great experience a customer had, they would tell 3 people. But for every negative experience, they would tell 11.
I totally agree.
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Old 06-26-15, 05:58 PM
  #72  
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I love my wheels and I shill for the guy all the time. Have sent at least 5 people his way to buy the wheels.
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Old 06-26-15, 06:11 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by spectastic
what samples was he talking about?
generic chinese stuff. the kind that people assume are just as good, but seemingly do indeed come apart.
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Old 06-26-15, 06:58 PM
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Same wheel guy as @Ygduf ... Great guy, great wheels, I recommend them to all when they ask me about them.
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Old 06-26-15, 07:03 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by Ygduf
I paid like $800 for my last nice alu wheel build. From now on, I'll just pay the $900 to the RaceRims guy for the 50mm clinchers. They weigh less, brake well enough in all conditions, and feel good in the wind. They've also never needed to be trued in like ... 13-15k miles.

aren't they like $400 more that $900?
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