Reglue? (pics included)
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Reglue? (pics included)
I just took ownership of some tubulars. (first set!)
These have been used for about 200 miles and were glued on about a year ago. I am wondering if the tires should be reglued. I have tried pushing off the tire from the side and it doesn't really budge but I haven't pushed with all my strength. I have included some pics of places where I push on the tire, I am getting the most movement.
This first pic near the stem shows the largest gap of the tire from the edge.
This last pic shows how 95% of the tire looks.
These have been used for about 200 miles and were glued on about a year ago. I am wondering if the tires should be reglued. I have tried pushing off the tire from the side and it doesn't really budge but I haven't pushed with all my strength. I have included some pics of places where I push on the tire, I am getting the most movement.
This first pic near the stem shows the largest gap of the tire from the edge.
This last pic shows how 95% of the tire looks.
#5
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doesn't seem necessary, and you can probably do a brief touch up at places where you see the gaps on the rim edges. but then again i always reglue mine as i'd trust that more
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Secondly, what pressure should I run these veloflex carbons for road racing? I am at 72kg.
cheers
cheers
#8
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I'm about your weight. With 23mm tires (Vittoria EVO CX) I run 120 psi. 21-22mm I'd run 130 psi? I ran 22mm at 90 psi and almost crashed myself out of a race in a turn.
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Wow, thanks. That is a big change from what I run my 23 mm tubeless: 85-90 psi rear and 80-85 psi front.
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You appear good. You should not reglue from the bit I saw. Reglue on a well glued tire makes things worse.
Veloflex are great tires.
Veloflex are great tires.
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Thanks everyone. I can't wait for the other wheel to arrive (shipped separately) to give these Enve 1.65s a try. Soon, I will be learning the dark art of gluing.
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My method for gluing (Yeah, there are lots of methods out there. This method has pretty much been rock solid for me for years. I've had tires that were glued on for 5 years still require tools to remove)
#14
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I should think about regluing my hed h3...I bought it from my friend who hadnt raced/rode it for maybe 2 or 3 years
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@Grumpy McTrumpy: I like the use of the glove rather than brushes. Also, other videos that I have watched included a last layer of glue applied just before mounting. That would seem to cause more of a mess than this method. Thanks! This is making tubulars livable.
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I've tried the glove method, but the glue ends up sticking to the gloves too much and pulling on them. Maybe I need to try better gloves. Still, I've gotten used to using brushes. I buy them in bulk from Harbor Freight.
Also, OP, as Chappy said, if you are concerned, you can use a toothpick or coffee stirrer from Starbucks to apply some glue to the areas that have a few gaps. That should be fine.
Also, OP, as Chappy said, if you are concerned, you can use a toothpick or coffee stirrer from Starbucks to apply some glue to the areas that have a few gaps. That should be fine.
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thanks @topflightpro. Looks like I should get a tube of mastik and gloves.
<also kicking myself for getting rid of a truing stand a while back>
<also kicking myself for getting rid of a truing stand a while back>
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Also, should I have a valve extender already installed on my spare when I plan to carry a spare or can I unscrew the extenders on the current tires? (Zipp extenders) And in that event, I suppose it is possible but hard to just rip the tire off using bare hands and maybe a tire lever?
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They don't come off easy. Maybe on a really hot day after hard braking you could try yanking the tire off. If you really want to carry a spare, you should probably carry a tire lever too.
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Well, I am putting in Orange Seal in the tubulars and I already carry a small bit of super glue with me, so maybe I don't need to carry the spare.
This is my standard method for riding tubeless. I don't even both to carry an extra tube now and find tubeless to be less of a hassle than clinchers. Talking with my LBS, who rides tubulars exclusively for 30 years now, he thinks that should cover 98% of my rides.
This is my standard method for riding tubeless. I don't even both to carry an extra tube now and find tubeless to be less of a hassle than clinchers. Talking with my LBS, who rides tubulars exclusively for 30 years now, he thinks that should cover 98% of my rides.
#22
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I've ridden on narrow tubular rims (meaning the tire covered the rim edges pretty well - 21mm tire on 20mm rim, for example). I could hit 30+ mph on a rolling downhill road with an old school front tubular flat.
In contrast on wide rims I actually got off the bike each time I flatted. 25-26mm wide rims, 23mm tire. I couldn't steer when I flatted a front, rim was too wide and I couldn't lean even a little. Had to crawl on the thing to get back to the car (it was a crit).
Also, with the wide rim, the rim hits the road. Plus it's carbon, not aluminum.
In contrast on wide rims I actually got off the bike each time I flatted. 25-26mm wide rims, 23mm tire. I couldn't steer when I flatted a front, rim was too wide and I couldn't lean even a little. Had to crawl on the thing to get back to the car (it was a crit).
Also, with the wide rim, the rim hits the road. Plus it's carbon, not aluminum.
__________________
"...during the Lance years, being fit became the No. 1 thing. Totally the only thing. It’s a big part of what we do, but fitness is not the only thing. There’s skills, there’s tactics … there’s all kinds of stuff..." Tim Johnson
"...during the Lance years, being fit became the No. 1 thing. Totally the only thing. It’s a big part of what we do, but fitness is not the only thing. There’s skills, there’s tactics … there’s all kinds of stuff..." Tim Johnson