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Old 04-21-06, 01:32 PM   #1
goodall
draw line at carbon forks
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Worst bike you race on?

I race on a Caad7 frame, but need to save some bucks. I'm considering getting a used Caad3 or worse when my original frame finally craps out. That got me thinking, how low could I go?

What's the worst bike you've ridden in a mass start race? I'm talking within the last 5 years, not back in 1982. Anybody on 36 spokes? Downtube shifters? Headtube shifters? That new Wal-Mart road bike? The Wal-Mart mountain bike??

Myself, I've only raced the Cannondale, but I did see a guy do a crit on a single speed conversion. He got dropped so fast, it was ridiculous.
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Old 04-21-06, 01:53 PM   #2
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Its not whats between your legs, its whats IN your legs that counts in cycling. Whats between your legs only counts in porno flicks.

I went from a cat 4 to a cat 2 (back when there were only 4 cats) in one season on a Viscount Aerospace with Shimano components, when everyone looked down on you if you didn't have a full Campy Colnago, Ciocc, Guerciotti, etc. I would have made cat 1 but that year only National Team riders were cat 1s.
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Old 04-21-06, 02:01 PM   #3
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old trek 1000 with suntour componets. I did pretty well until I got my new Giant.
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Old 04-22-06, 09:51 AM   #4
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I raced through Cat 5 and into Cat 4 with a stock Trek 1000.
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Old 04-22-06, 09:57 AM   #5
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not exactly the *cheapest* but....first bike was a specialized allez comp and now i'm racing a stock mericer from bikesdirect. both bikes were $1300 new and are perfect for racing around here. good enough quality and not so expensive as to cry over if i ruin them in a crash. i'll probably never go above the mid priced ultergra bikes...just too much bang for the buck.
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Old 04-22-06, 11:02 AM   #6
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If Tim lets me draft behind him, I'll be racing a cat 5 race with a 35 lb giant ocr touring with full fenders and disc brakes.
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Old 04-22-06, 11:03 AM   #7
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2000 Allez, triple, all aluminum, sora,tiagra. Oooh baby, drool!! Actually, I really like my allez. I think my next bike will be another specialized. I upgraded to bontrager race wheelset on it, which helps the cool factor. I truely hated my Alex 22's.
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Old 04-25-06, 06:44 AM   #8
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I did a few cyclocross races (my first season about 3 years ago) on my 1983 nashbar touring bike with Suntour DT friction shifters. I upgraded to bar cons and a single ring and it made a big improvement. I went on to win the mens c winter series. It was a bit heavy but tough as nails.
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Old 04-25-06, 06:55 AM   #9
goodall
draw line at carbon forks
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That reminds me, a guy on our team did his first season of cyclocross on a hybrid. He's very strong, and we've since talked him into upgrading.
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Old 04-25-06, 07:52 AM   #10
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Rossin Quatro
What a P.O.S.
But for one season in 1987, it was the fastest bike I had.
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Old 04-25-06, 10:22 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by San Rensho
Its not whats between your legs, its whats IN your legs that counts in cycling. Whats between your legs only counts in porno flicks.
Tell that to Hincapie.
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Old 04-25-06, 12:18 PM   #12
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2003 Allez Pro. Damn thing fell apart on me on lap 3 of my last race It's actually a good frame. Dunno what happened but the chain jumped the cogs, jammed down in-between the largest cog and the hub and stopped the back wheel immediately. Usually I race the S-works but it was in the shop.
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Old 04-25-06, 12:27 PM   #13
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I raced my 531c Raleigh back in 1992!

Anyway, I've recently raced on my Taiwanese Dedacciai 7003 thingy, and I don't even know what it is -- the shop I bought it from only had it as a display frame for their own decals. The guy who resprayed it for me reckons it's a Norco! All I know is that it's light enough and stiff enough, and I won't really care if it cracks coz it cost about $220 US.

I also still race on 32 and 28 hole Ultegra hubs, and I seem to be the only guy in Melbourne doing so.

I'm beginning to really believe that frames are overrated; as long as the weight and stiffness is ok, the bike will be fast enough with a good groupo and good wheels, and a good fork will do a lot for the handling. In other words, a generic alu frame should be good enough in most cases to race on with the right stuff on it.

When my Superprodigy was in for a minor repair last year, I put all the 9 & 10 speed Dura-Ace stuff, and the Columbus Muscle on my 531 Raleigh, and the bike was transformed!! I couldn't believe it.

Oh yeah, and I would've glady ridden on this cheapo 1999 Allez Comp -- believe it or not, it's one of the best frames I had till it cracked


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Old 04-25-06, 12:30 PM   #14
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My first race was on a Centurion LeMans with Bio-Pace chain rings.
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Old 04-25-06, 01:01 PM   #15
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'04 Giant TCR 1 alum. When the going gets tough, the tough gets transmitted to my balls through straight aluminum tubes.
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Old 04-25-06, 02:03 PM   #16
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One time when I was a weight-weenie and tech-geek, I did the last-minute build-up of my bike and just couldn't get the paint to dry on my frame quickly enough after having brazed on some lightweight shifter-bosses and drop-outs. But I needed a bike for the UCSB road-race the next day (and crit on Sun).

So I ended using my campus commuter bike for the races. It was one of those "MATTHEWS, top-of-the-hill Daly City" specials that I got for free when you buy a $100+ stereo system. Got the boom-box for the dorm and a bike for campus, great! It was a behemoth at 38lbs, all steel parts, although the rims were some sort of Araya alloy part. I had already taken off the MTB bars and put drop-bars on to make it more like a cross-bike. Just needed to swap the tyres off for some FatBoy slicks and put the 7-speed close-ratio freewheel from the road-bike on and that was it, we're set! Ended up getting 2nd in the road-race and pack-finish in the crit... but the cornering power in the crit was insane! I could scrape & drag pedals in just about all corners and the bike wouldn't even blink! Couldn't have done that on the road-bike.
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Old 04-25-06, 06:45 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cypress
'04 Giant TCR 1 alum. When the going gets tough, the tough gets transmitted to my balls through straight aluminum tubes.
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Old 04-25-06, 06:59 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 531Aussie
I also still race on 32 and 28 hole Ultegra hubs, and I seem to be the only guy in Melbourne doing so.
The horror! God knows that talking to some riders you need deep carbon rims to race C grade club crits.
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Old 04-25-06, 09:39 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by classic1
The horror! God knows that talking to some riders you need deep carbon rims to race C grade club crits.
you're not wrong!! The last race I did, which was a vets race, I spent half the time drooling over all the bikes and the wheels
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Old 04-26-06, 10:04 PM   #20
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Similar to 2Rodies, I first started racing on a Centurion Ironman with downtube shifters. Raced that thing all season and even at nationals, and took top three finishes in many local races. I became a weight weenie after that (not an ounce of steel on my next 2 bikes), but my finishes were actually worse. So as they said, it's not what's in between your legs.

Most of my bikes have "take-off" framesets, by the way. You can get a decent frame for less than $100 at a shop if you're not picky.

BTW, anyone else notice that the Cat 5 riders usually have the $3000-4000 bikes while the 1s and 2s are on simpler equipment with the goodies only where it counts? All I ever used to see in Cat 5 was Lightspeed titanium, Trek carbon, and high level steel boutique bikes with Spinergy, Specialized, and Zipp wheels, everything matching and bling. Then I would look at the 1s and 2s who were riding Cannondale or Specialized aluminum, older steel frames or locally custom built steel frames, painted simple solid colors, sometimes to match their team, with lightweight box rim tubulars or mismatched aero wheels.
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Old 04-26-06, 10:15 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by urbanknight
BTW, anyone else notice that the Cat 5 riders usually have the $3000-4000 bikes while the 1s and 2s are on simpler equipment with the goodies only where it counts? All I ever used to see in Cat 5 was Lightspeed titanium, Trek carbon, and high level steel boutique bikes with Spinergy, Specialized, and Zipp wheels, everything matching and bling. Then I would look at the 1s and 2s who were riding Cannondale or Specialized aluminum, older steel frames or locally custom built steel frames, painted simple solid colors, sometimes to match their team, with lightweight box rim tubulars or mismatched aero wheels.
There seems to be an inverse relationship between price of wheelset and skill in cat5 races.

Only have one road bike, a cannondale caad8. I've been thinking about trying out a race on my mtn. bike with some slicks thrown onto it, just for kicks.
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Old 04-27-06, 09:23 AM   #22
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^ If you do, please post pics.
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Old 04-27-06, 09:32 AM   #23
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will do, just have to find a race flat enough to not have any fast downhills.
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Old 04-27-06, 10:38 AM   #24
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I'll be doing my first race of the season this Saturday on my Allez Sport. The triple. Hey, it's my only road bike. I did a modest upgrade on the wheels. And the engine - I've been doing a little work on that too. We'll see how it goes.
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Old 04-27-06, 11:52 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by urbanknight
Similar to 2Rodies, I first started racing on a Centurion Ironman with downtube shifters. Raced that thing all season and even at nationals, and took top three finishes in many local races. I became a weight weenie after that (not an ounce of steel on my next 2 bikes), but my finishes were actually worse. So as they said, it's not what's in between your legs.

Most of my bikes have "take-off" framesets, by the way. You can get a decent frame for less than $100 at a shop if you're not picky.

BTW, anyone else notice that the Cat 5 riders usually have the $3000-4000 bikes while the 1s and 2s are on simpler equipment with the goodies only where it counts? All I ever used to see in Cat 5 was Lightspeed titanium, Trek carbon, and high level steel boutique bikes with Spinergy, Specialized, and Zipp wheels, everything matching and bling. Then I would look at the 1s and 2s who were riding Cannondale or Specialized aluminum, older steel frames or locally custom built steel frames, painted simple solid colors, sometimes to match their team, with lightweight box rim tubulars or mismatched aero wheels.
Yes. If you race, and you are not sponsored or minimally sponsored, you are traveling around the country with the bikes stashed in the trunk of your car, a buddy's car, a train, and it gets beat up real quick. Your bike does not live on an altar, primped, lit and prominently displayed in your home or office. Your bike lives in pieces when you are not riding it. You also crash regularly which again beats up your bike.

Eventually you look at your bike for what it is, a machine that you use as a tool for racing. Your focus is on the race, not the machine. Sure, you take care of it, but you are worried mostly about having good wheels, the right tires and good gears and not about some new carbon fiber water bottle cage that can save you 2 grams.

After a while, you really don't care what it looks like, you may just get it painted for the next season if it looks really ratty, no decals, why worry about decals, its likely in your next crash will bend or crack the frame and you have to throw it out anyway.
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