Road racing with cross bike?
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Road racing with cross bike?
I've been riding my cross bike (redline conquest pro) all winter as a commuter and general training bike so I only have one bike to clean, considering that the first few races of the year will most likely have some crashes or rain I was thinking about just throwing on a 53/39T crankset on (it currently has a 46/34T) and using that for racing during the first few races. Does anyone do this? Use your cross bike for the first few races of the year or at least until you know you won't have to clean your race bike as much?
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Originally Posted by thatguy
Bikes are meant to get dirty.
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Originally Posted by DRLski
I"m a bit OCDish when it comes to dirt on my bikes.
I have very little emotional attachment to sporting goods. That doesn't mean I don't love my bikes, but I paid a lot of money to have a nice bike to ride/race and I'm going to use it. Few things are as rewarding as buying a high-quality tool and using it for its intended purpose in all its glory.
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Oh, also, I think if you're doing road races and not super-twisty crit racing, your cross bike should handle it fine.
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Originally Posted by DRLski
...bikes are not happy when dirty...
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Don't go over 52/28 on that 110bcd crank. There is only one company (I belive) that makes 53/39 rings for a compact crank anyhow. That way you don't have to change the crank. Heck, even putting a 48T on there and leaving the 34T be would work, if you have an 11T cassette laying around. 48-11 is basically the same gear as a 53-12 anyhow.
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Get on a cross bike.... you'll like it ;)
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I was stuck with one hybrid/cross bike once and struggled to hang on the back of a club ride/race. Until, just before the finish, the course went across seven parallel train tracks with rotten pavement. Some of those skinny tired geeks actually started to dismount to walk their bikes. I went into high gear, dailed it to the proverbial 400 watts and sprinted to the finish. Use your cross bike: "What does not kill you can only make you stronger."
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I used my cross bike in the first couple races, only because I hadn't finished putting my road bike back together. It was fine, but it definately was heavier and slower. Mainly a mental thing I guess. Instead of swapping out your crankset, put an 11-23 cassette on there, or an 11-21 if it's a nine speed.
And what the heck, a 46/34 crankset? Does your grandma ride that bike?
And what the heck, a 46/34 crankset? Does your grandma ride that bike?
#12
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Originally Posted by thatguy
Bikes are meant to get dirty. Your race bike will not respect you if you baby it.
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Originally Posted by deyendznyr
And what the heck, a 46/34 crankset? Does your grandma ride that bike?
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Originally Posted by thatguy
You've obviously never raced 'cross.
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Originally Posted by briscoelab
Well, the 34 is pretty lame for a real cross racing bike I sport the manly 36T Or a 38 or 39 if the course is a real cross course. Seems so many CX race courses in the states are designed poorly... more like a MTB course.... and that's why people end up with lower gears than a typical 48-48/38 setup.
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It depends on the bike but I don't find a true competition CX bike that comfortable for distances over 50 miles, I think most of the plush-ride people associate with cross bikes is the fat tires. You will also likely be giving away 2 or 3 lbs which is substantial. I've done it, but hanging with a fast pack on the CX bike wasn't fun.
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34 seems very low for a cross bike, I race mine on 39-48 with a 12-25 on the back, rarely using the 48. A properly designed cross course should have run ups on any hill steep enough to make you want a lower gear than a 39 on the front.
Regarding racing on the road, I'm not much of a road racer, but am pretty quick on an mountain bike or cross course and don't have a road bike. I've been racing my cross bike with the local road club for the past couple of years without any problems. I put on 23mm slicks on semi aero wheels (FSA RD200), flip the stem down and rock a 11-21 on the back which is doable as I can grind on our massive 3 minute climbs we have in Saskatchewan! I'm sure the 2-3 lb weight reduction of a real road bike would be nice on the climbs, but I'm just out for the fun/training anyways. I'm sure my bikes handling is slower than the road machines out there, but I seem to survive. This year I plan on doing some Provincial level road races in Cat4, applied for Cat3, but they wouldn't give it to me due to no road racing experience. So I'm hoping to win, or at least be in the top 3 on my crosser, hopefully it offends some OCP roadies!
Regarding racing on the road, I'm not much of a road racer, but am pretty quick on an mountain bike or cross course and don't have a road bike. I've been racing my cross bike with the local road club for the past couple of years without any problems. I put on 23mm slicks on semi aero wheels (FSA RD200), flip the stem down and rock a 11-21 on the back which is doable as I can grind on our massive 3 minute climbs we have in Saskatchewan! I'm sure the 2-3 lb weight reduction of a real road bike would be nice on the climbs, but I'm just out for the fun/training anyways. I'm sure my bikes handling is slower than the road machines out there, but I seem to survive. This year I plan on doing some Provincial level road races in Cat4, applied for Cat3, but they wouldn't give it to me due to no road racing experience. So I'm hoping to win, or at least be in the top 3 on my crosser, hopefully it offends some OCP roadies!
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Originally Posted by thatguy
You've obviously never raced 'cross.
Most of the bikes I looked at came stock with something pretty similar. When I was looking at new cross bikes I did see some with compact cranksets (50/34), but I never saw a 46/34 before.
I think manufacturers wouldn't sell stock cyclo cranksets with that gearing for the very same reason that OP is complaining about. The gearing gets a little slack when you want to hammer.
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Originally Posted by deyendznyr
The gearing gets a little slack when you want to hammer.
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Originally Posted by thatguy
Hammer on the road or in a cross race? I can't imagine ever needing a 48x12 in a cross race. If you do then you might as well just ride a road bike. The manufacturers must sell these bikes assuming a large number of them will never be raced and must include appropriate road gearing or a compromise thereof. If you go to a pro race 46/38 or 46/36 is the most common setup and a 48 might only be used on a fast, dry course. Plus, what do you say to all the pros who run a 42 or 44 single ring up front? They're still fast as ****.
But Cross season is short. I use my cross bike for winter training, and probably put on more miles for that than I do when I'm racing cross. If I had a 46/34, I'd rarely end up using the small ring.
But how many PRO's buy stock cross bikes? Can you buy Ryan Trebon's Major Jake? No. Most bikes in the $1000-$1800 range are not set up with Pro's in mind, and that price range is where a lot of cross bikes fall into.
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Originally Posted by deyendznyr
I]But how many PRO's buy stock cross bikes? Can you buy Ryan Trebon's Major Jake? No. Most bikes in the $1000-$1800 range are not set up with Pro's in mind, and that price range is where a lot of cross bikes fall into.
I don't know how we got on to this, but the OP asked about road racing his 'cross bike, and I think it's fine. You might want to swap the gearing for what's laying around or just go for it as is. I also think that bikes are made to be ridden and dirtied.
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Originally Posted by deyendznyr
And what the heck, a 46/34 crankset? Does your grandma ride that bike?
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Originally Posted by I saw Elvis
What's the old saying, 'If your bikes clean then you're not riding it enough'