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  1. #1
    Senior Member werksmini's Avatar
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    What do you really need?

    I joined my college's cycling team this year in anticipation for the spring season next year. Im just trying to figure out how can, in the least expensive way, get a bike that will be able to get me through my first season. I have a ton of bike parts/frames lying around but noting along the lines of a race worthy bike. I guess I should just list some of the stuff I have?

    There are two frames
    -Late 80's Fiorelli race bike
    -Mid-Late 90's LeMond Zurich

    On the Fio (total hodge podge)
    -7 speed rear cassette with campy downtube shifters
    -Record 10 Speed FD, Chorus BB and Crankset
    -7 or 8 speed unknown RD campy
    -Old Record brakes and levers
    -Mavic MA40 wheels w/shimano hubs
    -KEO sprints

    On the Lemond
    -nothing... it was my cousins training fixed gear so its pretty bare bones.
    -Dura Ace threaded headset
    -105 brake and levers (read brake)
    -105 BB and crank
    -Some track wheelset

    Now, I know the Lemond is the superior bike, but It would need an entire gruppo and wheelset to get into shape.

    The Fio, I guess It would just need some 8 speed brifters and an 8 speed cassette? Are 7 and 8 speed cassettes interchangeable? Or would I be better off with a used 8 speed rear wheel setup?

    Lets say a $600 or so budget from now until race season. Did I answer my own question in writing this? Would and 80's lugged steel ride get lost in the pack? I dont think that any of the kids in the intro class with CF bikes have anything on me physically. Advice, encouragement? Thanks!

  2. #2
    Aut Vincere Aut Mori Snuffleupagus's Avatar
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    Ride what you have, you'll be fine. The only time you'd be at a disadvantage is in the sprint. Even then, it won't be too severe...

  3. #3
    Senior Member jkizzle's Avatar
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    i just talked to our captain today, and he said the fact that i have any cf on my bike as all will probably make my bike stand out in the bottom division. he also said that college seems slower than normal public divisions, because alot of people are just starting out.

    im guessing that means wrecks, and that means bikes get messed up.

  4. #4
    not a climber
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    [QUOTE=werksmini;5594724]
    On the Fio (total hodge podge)
    -7 speed rear cassette with campy downtube shifters
    -Record 10 Speed FD, Chorus BB and Crankset
    -7 or 8 speed unknown RD campy
    -Old Record brakes and levers
    -Mavic MA40 wheels w/shimano hubs
    -KEO sprints

    On the Lemond
    -nothing... it was my cousins training fixed gear so its pretty bare bones.
    -Dura Ace threaded headset
    -105 brake and levers (read brake)
    -105 BB and crank
    -Some track wheelset

    If the Lemond is definitely better, then build it using the parts from the Fio, plus a few upgrades. Sell everything else, either via Ebay, or through some local club's classifieds, or swap meet. Also talk to the mechanics at a couple of bike shops, they may swap you a pair of used brifters for the track wheels. Visit a pawn shop, or estate sale in a nice part of town -- it's a long shot, but you may stumble across a good used bike, or at least a bike with good used parts. Make a plan, make a list, then post here what last bits you need. You make get lucky and someone may send you a gift. We were all "just starting out", starving students, etc. once too.

    Post this same "sob story" on a hard core triathlon forum (except say you're trying out for the triathlon team). In my experience many triathletes are as big, or bigger, bike gear snobs, and are likely to have upgraded parts on a bike, which means they have a perfectly useable pair of Ultegra brifters on a shelf in the garage, simply because they wanted DuraAce.

    Don't spend big for fancy wheels, these are the most likely to be trashed if you're in a wreck.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by werksmini View Post
    I dont think that any of the kids in the intro class with CF bikes have anything on me physically.
    i think you'd be surprised. i thought like u in my first collegiate race and got 20th. then again racing isn't just fitness and equipment...

    if it was i wouldn't have stuck with it.

  6. #6
    Peloton Dog patentcad's Avatar
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    >>What do you really need?<<

    Counseling.

  7. #7
    Quarq shill cslone's Avatar
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    Take the Lemond and put the Campy brakes, crankset, bb, and fd on it. Then search Ebay for 9 speed Shimano 105 or Ultegra STI shifters, rear derailleur and SRAM 9 speed cassette. I bet you could find all that for less than $200 on ebay.

    Assuming the wheels are still 7 speed, I personally would update them with a bombproof 8/9/10 set like open pros, which can also be had on ebay for less than $200, or even just an OP rear for less than $100.

    Or if you want to get off really cheap(I think), you could switch everything over to the Lemond and run some Shimano Bar End shifters in friction mode. That way you don't have to reach down for every shift, but you're still talking less than $100.
    Last edited by cslone; 11-12-07 at 08:09 AM.
    FS: Fuji SL1 frameset, 55.5cm toptube, excellent condition.

  8. #8
    Peloton Dog patentcad's Avatar
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    By the way, my pal Nelson is ranked like 3rd in the nation in his age group on the track for some sprint category, and he rides these ancient cheapo bikes with 7 speed derailleurs. I don't even know where he gets the parts to keep them on the road when the stuff breaks.

    You don't need nuthin'. Schwag is simply fun.

  9. #9
    Isaias NoRacer's Avatar
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    Does the Lemond have horizontal dropouts for the rear wheel?
    2009 mileage = 14,738 miles; 2010 mileage = 15,234 miles; 2011 mileage = 17,344 miles; 2012 mileage = 11,414 miles; 2013 = 12,169

  10. #10
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by patentcad View Post
    By the way, my pal Nelson is ranked like 3rd in the nation in his age group on the track for some sprint category, and he rides these ancient cheapo bikes with 7 speed derailleurs. I don't even know where he gets the parts to keep them on the road when the stuff breaks.

    You don't need nuthin'. Schwag is simply fun.
    i dunno pcad, sure makes you look fast

  11. #11
    Certifiable Bike "Expert"
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    For $600. just buy a used 9-speed aluminum road bike (ebay?). Part out the Fio, keep the Zurich for riding to school.
    I don't even use the offensive term "Fred." -- Sheldon "All Cyclists Are My Friends" Brown (1944-2008)

  12. #12
    Making a kilometer blurry waterrockets's Avatar
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    You can race the Fiorelli as-is. You'll just have to prepare for your sprints thoughtfully.

    If you want to upgrade your shifting on the cheap, you should be able to get everything for well under $400 if you shop carefully. Just checking around now, I found Tiagra brifters for $120, wheels for $120, both derailleurs for $50, etc.

    People in this sport are too hung up on gear. When you're starting out, your equipment makes very little difference if you've got a good fit.

  13. #13
    Peloton Dog patentcad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stea1thviper View Post
    i dunno pcad, sure makes you look fast
    Good point. Looking fast is really all that counts. I take back everything I said. You'll need a $7K road bike, Zipps, a Power Meter, a personal coach, and of course, EPO and HGH.

  14. #14
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    ask your captain or whoever to ask around for a sponsorship.

    On our team we can get a caad9 for 700 with tiagra/105, it's somewhat pricey but the bike handles...

    other than that, ride what you got, that way when you cross the line first you can point n laugh and if you cross it later, you can blame the bike

  15. #15
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    The Fio can be competitive if you fit it well (fit is key). You can transfer most of the drivetrain to the Lemond - just a new BB and the cranks will fit fine (assuming Fio is Italian and Lemond is English threaded). Again, key is making sure you fit the frame well (good stem/bar position, proper seat height and fore/aft adjustment).

    If you want to be able to shift at key points in a race for cheap, you can outfit whatever bike with a right side bar end shifter. The bar end was my secret weapon until STI came out - and I waited until Ergo came out before I went to such a lever. There are very good guys who race lugged steel frames with a bar end in the Cat 3s around here and they do fine.

    I have to verify I have an extra bar end around (I want to use one to "restore" the frame in the picture) but if I do I'll ship it to you if you like. I'd only have friction bar end shifters, but that's all you need to be able to shift during 100% sprint efforts or whenever you're making an effort out of the saddle in the drops. Key is to cut down the bar so the shifter is in the palm of your hand (hard to tell in the pic). Until you hit some big hills a slightly heavier, bar end equipped bike won't handicap you too much. The bike in the attached picture would be competitive even now (albeit not as comfy as a modern cf bike) but the picture was snapped in 1992 or so.

    good luck,
    cdr
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    "...during the Lance years, being fit became the No. 1 thing. Totally the only thing. It’s a big part of what we do, but fitness is not the only thing. There’s skills, there’s tactics … there’s all kinds of stuff..." Tim Johnson

  16. #16
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    I was planning on doing some collegiate races (MWCCC, Murray State University, Kentucky) in the Spring on my late 80s Fuji with downtube shifters. I bought a higher-geared (11-28 instead of 13-28) freewheel today just to get it to the point where I can train on it forever.

    I'm thinking if I really get into road racing, I'll save the money for a new, faster road bike. So why waste money now on more upgrades than I need?

    I'm getting pretty good with the DT shifters even though it's a long reach (about a 60 cm frame). I like the tight control they give me over shifting; no cable housings to slack things up, infinite precision on getting the derailleur in the perfect spot. Do you think I should go ahead and throw a bar end on or just DT shift my way through the 2008 season?

  17. #17
    Senior Member jkizzle's Avatar
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    charlie, good to hear from another kentucky student! id bet youd be fine with the downtube unless you are already really fast, and want to move up fast. from what i understand its not that big of a deal except for sprints. even then, ive heard you can learn to flip them with your knee in a sprint to shift up... i started out on pole shifters (the ones attached right at the stem) and didnt really much trouble keeping up with the guys using brifters. i only upgraded because that bike was 28 pounds and i found a steal on another bike.

    look forward to seeing you in the mwccc though this season, we will be racing the d's together im sure.

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