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  1. #1
    half man - half sheep Doggus's Avatar
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    16 hole replacement rim

    Wrecked a front wheel in the last race of the season, still haven't gotten around to replacing it yet. Running on the DA WH-7800 hub. What's a good choice of replacement rim? Did some searching and found the Niobium 30 but some people are complaining of lateral flex. DT Swiss R1.1 seems to be getting beat up in the reviews. Most reviews I saw were complaining about eyelets cracking. Also those were from '06 timeframe. Wonder if they've fixed the issue now.

    Weight fluctuates between 175-182. I race and train on the same wheels. Just have a spare set for the wheel truck. Recommendations? Stay with the DAs?
    "The cycling community is so small that it is nearly inbred." - Steve Tilford

  2. #2
    In beaurocratic limbo urbanknight's Avatar
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    The DT rim you mentioned doesn't come in 16 hole anyway. With that low of a spoke count and your weight, I would get a deep and strong rim. May I suggest the Velocity Deep V?
    Last edited by urbanknight; 01-30-08 at 11:44 PM.

  3. #3
    Making a kilometer blurry waterrockets's Avatar
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    +1 to the Deep V, 120+ kgf. It's time to get serious.

    Really, you have no business riding a 16h front full time, other than the hub you already have.

  4. #4
    In beaurocratic limbo urbanknight's Avatar
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    ^ Yep. I'm 150 lb and train on 32h 3x wheels. My 16/20 wheels are mainly for race day only, maybe the faster club rides if I feel like it.

  5. #5
    half man - half sheep Doggus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by waterrockets View Post
    +1 to the Deep V, 120+ kgf. It's time to get serious.

    Really, you have no business riding a 16h front full time, other than the hub you already have.
    After much reading, that's what I would think too except one small problem - I have over 10,000 miles on these wheels without even a truing until I went down in the Denton Crit and dinged the curb. Last weekend, someone hit my back wheel hard and it went out of true. That wheel probably has over 13k (wasn't damaged in the crit crash and still running it). It's a 20 spoke (!!zomg!!). These are the first time they've been to the shop. I check my wheels on a regular basis. These things have been solid. Our Velocity Dyad tandem rear wheel won't stay true for longer than a year, but I expect that.

    Guess I've just gotten lucky with these wheels? They were stock on my bike when I bought it. Guess I didn't know any better. I've ridden test wheels with higher spoke counts that noodled in between the brake pads. Very disconcerting, I know what it feels like. These wheels have never budged.

    I'm running Velocity DeepVs on my fixed gear 26h-30h.

    Now that you've put the bug in my ear, what build would you recommend for me? 6' 2.5", 180lbs, can generate 3 (sometimes 4) watts for up to 2 minutes. My training wheels are my racing wheels, I don't have the luxury of both.

    Damn I hate to get rid of stuff that still works fine.

    From WeightWeenies (god these look heavy):
    Deep-V 2006 700C 28H. 520 g 580 g +11,54% clincher, black anodized
    "The cycling community is so small that it is nearly inbred." - Steve Tilford

  6. #6
    Making a kilometer blurry waterrockets's Avatar
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    The build quality on the Shimano wheels is really high, for the three or four samples I've examined. Better than any other boutique wheel. They still have frequent rim cracking problems though. My feeling is that building another 16h wheel to the same quality level and exceptionally high tension is risky. You're likely to end up with a build that isn't as solid as the original Shimano build. Also, you may not be able to even get the same durability out of the parts: what spokes did Shimano use originally? Is there a retail-available rim out there with the same specs as the original?

    I guess I just think it's too risky to try to replicate the mojo on the only reliable 16h aluminum wheel I know of.

    Regarding the Niobium 30, I recently finished building a 28h wheel (heads-out radial) using that rim, and it's got to be the stiffest road front I've felt. There's just hardly any give.

    I'd say to get a 28h Nio... 24h if you can deal with a bit of a loss of durability and crash resistance. Even with 24h on the front, you're looking at a 20,000+ mile wheel, depending on how rough your roads are, with a good build.

    For a front hub, I think anything from a Tiagra all the way up to a White H2 is just fine. Note that the Tiagra is about the same weight as Ultegra... for $30, and just as endlessly durable.

    Yes, the Deep-V is heavy, but I've got one (32h) on the front of my bike, and I race on it. I was riding a 36h Deep-V rear, but it's hanging up now that I've got a PowerTap. The Deep V is the most durable road rim I know of.

  7. #7
    In beaurocratic limbo urbanknight's Avatar
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    The concern isn't how often a wheel goes out of true. The issue is that if you break a spoke, you're walking home, while you could lose 2 or 3 on a 32 spoke wheel and still finish your ride. Since you already have the hub and use the same wheel for racing, I would just go with the Deep V and hope to continue the 10,000 streak. If you can afford it, pick up an inexpensive set of wheels (i.e. Ultegra/Open Pro) for training and race on your 16/20. I use my 32 spoke wheels on my commute, on most training rides, and in the wheel pit at races.

  8. #8
    Making a kilometer blurry waterrockets's Avatar
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    Yeah, I kicked a hunk of metal up into my 36h Deep-V and broke a drive side spoke. It didn't even come out of true enough to require opening the brakes!

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