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Old 05-27-08, 05:31 PM   #1
bdcheung
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New freehub, lots of drag

Installed a new freehub on my Zipp 202 rear hub tonight and now there's A LOT of drag when freewheeling - enough so that any pressure on the pedals when freewheeling throws the chain off the cassette and really ****s with the RD.

I've narrowed it down to a bearing problem - when I loosen the end caps, thereby relieving pressure on the bearings, everything is fine.

Anyone know if the bearings just need to be broken in, or am I missing a washer/spacer/shim somewhere?
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Old 05-28-08, 05:59 AM   #2
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Are you applying too much preload to the bearings?

It may just need to be run in a bit. Hard to tell how much is A LOT. Many cartridge bearings come packed fairly stiff, but loosen up within 10 or 20 miles.
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Old 05-28-08, 06:03 AM   #3
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Installed a new freehub on my Zipp 202 rear hub tonight and now there's A LOT of drag when freewheeling - enough so that any pressure on the pedals when freewheeling throws the chain off the cassette and really ****s with the RD.

I've narrowed it down to a bearing problem - when I loosen the end caps, thereby relieving pressure on the bearings, everything is fine.

Anyone know if the bearings just need to be broken in, or am I missing a washer/spacer/shim somewhere?
Got a picture of the old freehub from the side that faces the bearings?
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Old 05-28-08, 06:51 AM   #4
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@jamiewilson: "a lot" = like riding a fixed gear. Seriously.

@NoRacer: I'm at work now but will take pictures of both cassette bodies tonight when I get home. I replaced a 202P freehub body with a 202W freehub body (so that I can use my SRAM Red cassettes).
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Old 05-28-08, 07:03 AM   #5
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Unless you are man-handling your preload adjustment, then that would not account for it. I would bet that you are missing a part that is causing the preload to be applied to the inner race, binding the bearing.

Or, just say F it and go to the track with your FG.
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Old 05-28-08, 07:05 AM   #6
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sounds like what my 303 did when I forgot to install the spacer between the hub and the back of the freehub.......
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Old 05-28-08, 07:11 AM   #7
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Unless you are man-handling your preload adjustment
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Old 05-28-08, 07:15 AM   #8
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sounds like what my 303 did when I forgot to install the spacer between the hub and the back of the freehub.......
I thought it was that, too, but I looked everywhere and couldn't find any spacer. It's not on the old freehub, it's not on the axle, and it's not on my workbench (which is immaculately clean).

Also, when I put the old freehub on, everything works fine. That makes me think it might not be the washer.
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Old 05-28-08, 07:16 AM   #9
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Unless you are man-handling your preload adjustment
Even finger-tight causes this.
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Old 05-28-08, 07:18 AM   #10
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I thought it was that, too, but I looked everywhere and couldn't find any spacer. It's not on the old freehub, it's not on the axle, and it's not on my workbench (which is immaculately clean).

Also, when I put the old freehub on, everything works fine. That makes me think it might not be the washer.
There HAS to be a spacer between the hub bearing and the freehub. Maybe it is stuck in the oil on the old freehub? Zipp does not include a spacer with new freehubs so the old one has to be reused. Look again ...maybe take a little screw driver and see if the spacer is stuck on the old body.
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Old 05-28-08, 07:22 AM   #11
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Where on the old freehub would it be stuck? Inside, where the axle inserts, or on the very back pressed up against the part that the pawls are on?
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Old 05-28-08, 07:23 AM   #12
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i'm with garysol on this one.
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Old 05-28-08, 07:29 AM   #13
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So in this pic, my new freehub is the one on the right. where does the washer go again?

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Old 05-28-08, 07:32 AM   #14
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Where on the old freehub would it be stuck? Inside, where the axle inserts, or on the very back pressed up against the part that the pawls are on?
In the picture below...see the blue bearing seal? Your spacer is probably stuck to it.

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Old 05-28-08, 07:33 AM   #15
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Worse case call Zipp. There tech guys are very very helpful.
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Old 05-28-08, 07:35 AM   #16
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Take a look HERE. This covers all years....
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Old 05-28-08, 07:38 AM   #17
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ok, so presumably if my old (202P) freehub still works fine, then the washer must still be attached to the cassette body. Now, as I'm looking at the PDF diagram, I still don't understand where the washer is: inside the cassette body or just stuck to the back of it?
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Old 05-28-08, 07:40 AM   #18
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btw, thanks for your help gary
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Old 05-28-08, 07:41 AM   #19
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In the picture below...see the blue bearing seal? Your spacer is probably stuck to it.

ooook, that makes sense. I didn't check for a washer covering the bearing seal. I'll look there tonight when I get home.
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Old 05-28-08, 07:56 AM   #20
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I have two wheels that have freehub bodies like the one I attached. They have a rubber seal in the area indicated but no spacer at the bearing.

The one that Gary shows (blue body) doesn't have the same lip.
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Old 05-28-08, 07:58 AM   #21
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No rubber seal on my old 202P, but there is a rubber seal on the hub shell that presses against the area indicated in your picture.

Come to think of it, my cassette body doesn't look anything like the one gary posted - both bearings are inside the cassette body, separated by the axle sleeve. I really don't think there's a washer but will take pics and post them tonight.
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Old 05-28-08, 08:36 AM   #22
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This is what my (old) cassette body looks like:


The new one looks like this:


I have no idea where the washer would go.
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Old 05-28-08, 08:46 AM   #23
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This is what my (old) cassette body looks like:


The new one looks like this:


I have no idea where the washer would go.
There's an extra step in the new body.
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Old 05-28-08, 08:49 AM   #24
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There's an extra step in the new body.
What effect does that have? The two bodies are supposed to be interchangeable, I thought.
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Old 05-28-08, 09:12 AM   #25
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What effect does that have? The two bodies are supposed to be interchangeable, I thought.
My -guess- is that the old body is 8, 9, 10 speed compatible and the new one, I believe, is for 10 speed only. The extra lip may give you extra length, causing it to push against something and causing the hub to bind.

Also, the old one has cut-outs that line up with the flanges that keep the cogs in place. The new one doesn't have the same cut-outs. I wonder if the lip on the new one may be making contact with the hub body.

I think we need a picture of the hub looking into the ratchet area of the hub.
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