Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 22 of 22
  1. #1
    Acquiring new target.... carlfreddy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    My Bikes
    Trek XO-1, Gary Fisher Rig
    Posts
    1,276
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Carbon Wheels and brake pads, the real story?

    Now that I actually have a set of carbon wheels I've become a bit more concerned with brake pads.

    The consensus here on BF seems to be that if you have carbon wheels you *must* run cork pads, but BF-opinions are like a**holes, everybody has them and they all smell.

    I understand the need to keep whatever brake pads you're running clean and free of debris whilst using carbon wheels, but will rubber pads (that are clean) actually damage carbon wheels?

    The wrenches at the LBS where I work (just started this week, w00h00 Employee Purchase!) swear that using rubber pads is fine if you're ok with the "pulsing" action.

    My Cat1 friend says that he rocked rubber pads all last season (he has Aeolus 6.5s) and just cleaned/sanded the pads when switching between aluminum and carbon wheels. But he also races every weekend, and this season he's rockin' cork pads.

    So, is it *really* necessary that I get a pair of cork pads specifically for my carbon wheels, and change pads every time I change wheels? Can't I just run cork or rubber pads all season and sand/clean the pads anytime I switch to my carbon wheels (which is only when I race)?
    There are only 10 types of people in the world; those who understand binary, and those who don't.

    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...dy/cartoon.gif

  2. #2
    Edificating dmotoguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    boise idaho
    My Bikes
    2005 Specialized Tarmac Comp, Steyr Clubman, Motobecane Phantom Cross Uno, Cannondale Caad9, IRO bffgss
    Posts
    2,441
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I run the zipp pads that are good on either alum or carbon.. I havent had any issues in a little over a year of switching back and forth.. I just wipe off the pads when I make the change.. they have good bite on the carbon, fair on the alum.

    Ultimate Cat -o- Meter
    X-x0x-x-X - 40%

  3. #3
    Senior Member ldesfor1@ithaca's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Newton Ctr. MA
    My Bikes
    2 cdale Caad7. Scatantte CX/winter bike. SS commuter.
    Posts
    2,109
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'd rather not gamble with my silly-expensive wheels.

    The coolstop yellows I'm running stop the bike with such ease that I'm happy to have these pads if for no other reason than their stopping powah.

    -L
    Last edited by ldesfor1@ithaca; 05-29-08 at 01:16 PM.
    Teammates-on-Podium O'meter: 0/n (n=total # of teammates I get to race with)
    Successful Breakaway O'meter: 0/total number of races entered

    Team/Training blogness:www.thresholdcycling.com

  4. #4
    Banned. El Diablo Rojo's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    ATX, Ex So Cal
    My Bikes
    Ridley Noah-Scott Addict-Orbea Ordu
    Posts
    11,058
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Leonard Zinn did an article on this subject on Velonews.com. Go search their site and he'll give you the scoop. Bottom line, run carbon specific pads. As for the Zipps going both ways, I won't run the pads I use on my al wheels on my carbon wheels due to the fact that they pick small pieces of al and can damage the carbon wheels. I bought some spare brake pad holders and just swap out the whole unit when I run the carbon wheels. This takes about 5 minutes and is worth just for the piece of mind, my carbon wheels weren't cheap!

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    3,918
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by El Diablo Rojo View Post
    Leonard Zinn did an article on this subject on Velonews.com. Go search their site and he'll give you the scoop. Bottom line, run carbon specific pads. As for the Zipps going both ways, I won't run the pads I use on my al wheels on my carbon wheels due to the fact that they pick small pieces of al and can damage the carbon wheels. I bought some spare brake pad holders and just swap out the whole unit when I run the carbon wheels. This takes about 5 minutes and is worth just for the piece of mind, my carbon wheels weren't cheap!
    Takes less than 1 minute to just switch the brake pad instead.....
    Please remember that all statements unless quoted, are strictly my opinion of what happened. That there are as many opinions as there are spectators attending. I just choose to publish mine on this forum. And would NEVER intend to purposely hurt or discredit any other cyclist.... With that said... HTFU!

  6. #6
    Carpe Diem bdcheung's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    MABRA
    My Bikes
    2007 CAAD9; 2008 Giant Bowery; 2008 Surly Crosscheck
    Posts
    13,130
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I run SwissStop Yellow. The Zipp pads that I originally used lacked both grip and durability.
    "When you are chewing the bars at the business end of a 90 mile road race you really dont care what gear you have hanging from your bike so long as it works."
    ΛΧΑ ΔΞ179 - 15% off your first Hammer Nutrition order!

  7. #7
    Banned. El Diablo Rojo's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    ATX, Ex So Cal
    My Bikes
    Ridley Noah-Scott Addict-Orbea Ordu
    Posts
    11,058
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by wfrogge View Post
    Takes less than 1 minute to just switch the brake pad instead.....
    You can R&R all four of your brake pads in one minute? Man you are good. I find it easier to just remove the bolt and put in the new holder.

  8. #8
    umd
    umd is offline
    Banned umd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Santa Barbara, CA
    My Bikes
    Specialized Tarmac SL2, Specialized Tarmac SL, Giant TCR Composite, Specialized StumpJumper Expert HT
    Posts
    28,343
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by carlfreddy View Post
    Now that I actually have a set of carbon wheels I've become a bit more concerned with brake pads.

    The consensus here on BF seems to be that if you have carbon wheels you *must* run cork pads, but BF-opinions are like a**holes, everybody has them and they all smell.

    I understand the need to keep whatever brake pads you're running clean and free of debris whilst using carbon wheels, but will rubber pads (that are clean) actually damage carbon wheels?

    The wrenches at the LBS where I work (just started this week, w00h00 Employee Purchase!) swear that using rubber pads is fine if you're ok with the "pulsing" action.

    My Cat1 friend says that he rocked rubber pads all last season (he has Aeolus 6.5s) and just cleaned/sanded the pads when switching between aluminum and carbon wheels. But he also races every weekend, and this season he's rockin' cork pads.

    So, is it *really* necessary that I get a pair of cork pads specifically for my carbon wheels, and change pads every time I change wheels? Can't I just run cork or rubber pads all season and sand/clean the pads anytime I switch to my carbon wheels (which is only when I race)?
    I have Reynolds wheels, and they say specifically to not use cork pads. I use SwissStop Yellow King Race 2000 pads, designed for Carbon wheels and they work great. I was swapping pads out for aluminum wheels, but now I just clean them when I put my carbons on.

  9. #9
    Resident Alien Racer Ex's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Let me check.
    My Bikes
    Of course.
    Posts
    11,246
    Mentioned
    15 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Kool Stop carbon specific on most of mine, manufacturer provided in the other. None of them are cork. On the rear brakes I usually run the Kool Stop salmon/black combo pads, I like the decreased stopping power on the rear for better modulation.

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    3,918
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by El Diablo Rojo View Post
    You can R&R all four of your brake pads in one minute? Man you are good. I find it easier to just remove the bolt and put in the new holder.
    Yeah..... wasnt trying to be a forum prick (this time). Have tried it both ways and find it easier to just switch just the pads. Def agree that its a big risk to run the same pads on both alum and carbon rims....
    Please remember that all statements unless quoted, are strictly my opinion of what happened. That there are as many opinions as there are spectators attending. I just choose to publish mine on this forum. And would NEVER intend to purposely hurt or discredit any other cyclist.... With that said... HTFU!

  11. #11
    umd
    umd is offline
    Banned umd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Santa Barbara, CA
    My Bikes
    Specialized Tarmac SL2, Specialized Tarmac SL, Giant TCR Composite, Specialized StumpJumper Expert HT
    Posts
    28,343
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by wfrogge View Post
    Yeah..... wasnt trying to be a forum prick (this time). Have tried it both ways and find it easier to just switch just the pads. Def agree that its a big risk to run the same pads on both alum and carbon rims....
    It depends on the brakes you have I guess. I have zero-g's and the pads are near impossible to change. I just got spare holders and swapped out the whole thing.

  12. #12
    Senior Member ericm979's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Santa Cruz Mountains
    Posts
    6,170
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I think it depends on the carbon rims. The LBS owner I ride with often has a set of Bontrager carbon wheels and had their cork pads work well and last for a couple years.

    Reynolds says only Kool-stop or Swissstop, nothing else. And when I tried the Koolstops they shredded during a single ride with no descents to speak of. A club-mate had a set of Reynolds rims delaminate and they asked him to send back the brake pads he was using in addition to the wheels, so it sounds like they take their pad recommendations seriously.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Stallionforce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Victoria
    My Bikes
    05 Norco CRR Team Carbon Dura Ace, 06 Cervelo P2C TT Dura Ace, 88 Olmo Steelie w. Campy Mirage, Cypress CX w. 105
    Posts
    1,372
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by dmotoguy View Post
    I run the zipp pads that are good on either alum or carbon.. I havent had any issues in a little over a year of switching back and forth.. I just wipe off the pads when I make the change.. they have good bite on the carbon, fair on the alum.

    +1 Zipp pads

    Expensive, but worth the $ if you're running carbon and aluminum braking surfaces. Just make sure after you use your training wheels that the pads are free from any metal debris -- even the slightest trace will gouge your precious carbon rims.

    Funny story: I bought a pair of Reynolds Attacks last year through a club deal and they came with cork brake pads. I then read on their website that they would not honour damage/crash replacement if the rider had been using cork pads.
    I'd be doing myself, and you guys, a disservice if I didn't ride the hell out of this thing!

  14. #14
    Senior Member tnor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    51
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by bdcheung View Post
    I run SwissStop Yellow. The Zipp pads that I originally used lacked both grip and durability.
    +1 I was running cork pads but switched to the SwissStop Yellow's. They have a little bit better braking power than the cork pads. They also say that they can be used with both carbon and aluuminium wheel's but I wouldn't risk it. If you do end up running them between 2 set's of wheels I would MAKE SURE they're clean and re-surface them with a bit of sandpaper.

  15. #15
    Slow'n'Aero DrWJODonnell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Driving the pace in the crosswind
    Posts
    2,599
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    with as expensive as the wheels are, I switch out the pads. Maybe not one minute, but certainly no more than three (it is exactly four turns for me and I never cinch the screw tightly...heck, campy doesn't even USE a screw, so they can't be THAT important unless you are often braking while going backwards).

    I have used Kool Stop and Zipp, and I like them both...whatever I can get on sale.

  16. #16
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Orange Park, FL
    My Bikes
    Ever changing..as of 2-24-09: 2003 Giant TCR Team Once, Sampson titanium, 1992 Paramount Series 3, 2003 Cervelo P3, 70s Raleigh Record fixed gear, 70s Fuji SL-12 commuter, mid 90s Klein MTB. Plus two or three frames lurking, plus 5 wife/kids rides
    Posts
    1,340
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    This thread prompts me to mention that while I love my new Vuelta 50 mm tubulars (the group buy wheels), the pads included with them SUCK. They grab and chatter if you try to modulate them at all, and squeal (although the squealing comes and goes, weirdly). They look like cork to me (brown, fairly hard).

    So boil this down for me: which Kool Stop pads work well in the wet, will modulate, and won't squeal?
    Kendall Frederick

    Orange Park, FL

  17. #17
    In beaurocratic limbo urbanknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA
    My Bikes
    Specialized Allez, K2 Razorback
    Posts
    22,457
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    With all the annoying noises I hear in packs with carbon rims and the bother of changing pads, I'm going to be a die hard fan of aluminum rims for years.

  18. #18
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Tariffville, CT
    My Bikes
    Tsunami Bikes
    Posts
    12,292
    Mentioned
    17 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have Reynolds carbon wheels.

    For a few years I raced and sometimes trained on my tubulars without changing pads (Ultegra calipers with OEM Ultegra pads). When I started looking for some matching clinchers, I saw a lot of notes in descriptions re: "no brake pad wear". I checked my tubulars. Arg, brake pad wear. Luckily it was winter.

    I got some clinchers and got some SwissStops (after reading CyclingNews's review on Reynolds before and after the SS pads).

    If you have Campy pad holders, you use a small screwdriver, insert behind brake pad from rear, twist. Pad pops out. Slide new pad in, tap into place. Takes a couple minutes to do all four, including balancing the bike if you don't have a stand (you have to take the wheels off, sort of).

    For the OP, since you work at a bike shop, the pads won't cost you too much. And you'll have a stand to use when you swap back and forth. I bet you can get the pad swap down to under 60 seconds

    cdr
    Last edited by carpediemracing; 06-07-08 at 08:48 PM. Reason: I put break for brake. Unbelievable.

  19. #19
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Athens, Ohio
    My Bikes
    Custom Custom Custom
    Posts
    5,104
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by umd View Post
    It depends on the brakes you have I guess. I have zero-g's and the pads are near impossible to change. I just got spare holders and swapped out the whole thing.
    Same with Campy holders. When I had carbon wheels, I changed out the whole unit. A lot easier that way. Shimano holders are easier that you can slide the pads in and out but you may still have to adjust them anyway. I'd still just change out the whole unit.

    As far as pads, I've tried Zipp and Kool Stop Carbon. They both work really well. I've also used standard rubber koolstop pads and they work too but a little more grabby (on/off). I've heard that Swiss Stop Yellow is also very good (but very expensive)

  20. #20
    Don't smoke, Mike. shapelike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Toronto
    My Bikes
    Devinci Tosca, IRO Rob Roy
    Posts
    3,295
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Stallionforce View Post
    Funny story: I bought a pair of Reynolds Attacks last year through a club deal and they came with cork brake pads. I then read on their website that they would not honour damage/crash replacement if the rider had been using cork pads.
    My cyclocross bike came with Aksiums and the Mavic fine print explicitly mentions no 'cross racing if you expect to have warranty coverage. I guess bike manufacturers just fudge the books or take a hit on any RA'd Aksium wheels from 'cross bikes? *shrugs*

  21. #21
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Kansas City
    My Bikes
    Diamondback centurion. Home built tandem
    Posts
    658
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    expensive/ painful lessons only have to be taught once....

  22. #22
    Acquiring new target.... carlfreddy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    My Bikes
    Trek XO-1, Gary Fisher Rig
    Posts
    1,276
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by bassplayinbiker View Post
    expensive/ painful lessons only have to be taught once....
    I thought you were done with all of this?



    Thanks for all your input guys!
    There are only 10 types of people in the world; those who understand binary, and those who don't.

    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...dy/cartoon.gif

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •