oneradtec

I'm possibly going to order a new bike any day now for my '09 season. For my budget, I've found that the bikes in my local shop are not spec'd to my liking relative to their prices.

Here's a few I'm somewhat interested in thus far......


https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=3040

https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/..._sprint_ix.htm

It seems the Motobecane might be a bit better on specs? It comes stock with Cane Creek SCR brakes. I've used these before on a prior bike and thought they were so good that I never bothered swapping them.

Anyone have opinions on these, or recommendations I have not thought of? Bike will be used for training rides, racing, indoor trainer, occasional century, and maybe a few time trials(with clip ons). Can't wait til '09, and I'm ready to start my base training soon.

dgearhart

What are you riding today? My concern with these bikes is that you may only being upgrading slightly from your current bike. I'd avoid a small upgrade purchase and wait until you can do a major upgrade. If you race, it will not be long until you will want something slightly more expensive. If it were me, I would take your $1,200 + tax = $1,300 and get a really nice used road bike off eBay. I have purchased new and used from eBay. You can test ride bikes to get your sizing down, and then buy it off eBay. Normally, I wouldn't suggest this, but I think it is the best use of your budget. A $1,300 bike off eBay will be a carbon fiber bike with ultegra all around. What is your bike and frame size now? I'll look at similar geometry for you on eBay. This will essentially double your money as bike depreciate massively even after one year...the saying for cars depreciating when driven off the lot really holds true for bikes.

- Dave

oneradtec

Thanks for the reply. I currently have an early 90's Italian lugged steel frame with an old Dura Ace 8 speed group. I was considering putting a modern groupset on it and racing that. Also considering just buying new bike as mentioned above. Regarding the motobecane, it's got a full Ultegra drive train and a decent set of wheels...as well as a solid double butted Alu frame with carbon stays and carbon fork. To me it seems somewhat ready for racing. I cannot see where I would have to upgrade very much with it. Plus it would be a few pounds lighter than my current streel frame. The only issue I see is that it isn't a carbon frame. I've ridden carbon before(Giant TCR Composite O and Trek OCLV) and I never really loved it considerably more than Alu or steel. I always felt that Alu and steel is more durable than carbon over the long haul....although carbon is a bit lighter and perhaps gives you a softer ride. Thanks for your advice. I'll consider it.

jonestr

I would have to disagree with you on the idea that aluminum is more durable over the long haul than anything. Aluminum is a material with little to no elasticity, this is why there is no aluminum springs, so it must be built to minimize flex, and any flex weakens substantially weakens aluminum compared with a more elastic material like steel. Also, carbon can be made to do anything so saying it has a softer ride will be extremely relative to what you are used to and who manufactures the bike.

As for your bike choices, I am considering those 2 as well as the CFR line from Performance. If you have a Performance near by then I would lean towards their line of bikes as they have their 100% performance guarantee so you will probably have an easier time getting taken care of by them than bikesdirect. But I do agree that you get more for your money through bikesdirect, but their customer service has received spotty reports and it sounds like they direct warranties to manufacturers rather than dealing with it themselves, which can be lead to some hassles.

acorn_user

Does your current frame fit you? If so, keep it and change the groupset if/when it dies. 105/Rival/Veloce are all great groups that will make you happy and keep your wallet happy, but so is Dura Ace 8 speed.

CrimsonKarter21

If you're dead-set on getting a new bike for next season, I've been really impressed with Schwinn and GT, as well as Giant. However, Cannondale is always a good, inexpensive, quick bike to get.

That being said, I think you'll be fine with your current bike. Replace parts as you need to and it'll treat you well. Learning how to sprint efficiently on steel bikes will teach you how to be a smoother, and in effect faster, rider.

nycphotography

For budget minded racing: Fuji Team Pro on closeout at a performance store. I've been seeing some really sweet prices on here lately.

MONGO!

They're both junk for $1200, you could get a much better bike that if you buy used.

kukusz

Agree with most posts here. The resale value on those will be pitiful as well, better going used for that price.

rizz

Buy whatever frame floats your boat and throw a '09 Rival group on it. Then gently suggest to your S.O. that you really want aero wheels for the holidays.

ridethecliche

Might I suggest:

https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...mp_force08.htm

A caad9 with 105 will more than see your every need and it costs 1300 bucks...

kukusz

A slightly different version of that plan essentially worked for me.

oneradtec

I still have not made up my mind. Thanks for all the advice. Hey ridethecliche...the link to that motobecane was a sweet looking bike. I had not seen that one. That will stretch my budget a bit, but let me see what I can do. Gotta do something soon because I am starting my base training in a few weeks. What is more, it's is sunny and like 80 degrees outside right now and I don't have a bike to get out with. My steel frame has to go to the shop before it can be ridden.

ridethecliche

Honestly, I raced on a 84 trek steel frame this season. It never held me back.

You'll be fine with the bike you have as long as it fits.

acorn_user

The issue with your plan to buy online is fit. You could end up buying a bike that doesn't work for you. That's not worth the savings. That also applies to many 2nd hand purchases too. Of course, you could try and get it in the ballpark and pay someone to help you get it just so.

oneradtec

I have always had good luck as long as I get a bike with a top tube length of 55 to 56 cm. I once bought a bike that was a little large(Giant TCR Composite O) and ended up doing fine with it by buying a shorter stem to compensate.

Supposedly the Motobecanes are sized like Treks and Fuji. So I would do fine by choosing a 56 cm Motobecane, and then just make adjustments to stem and seat post to dial it in perfectly. I'm not saying it will fit perfectly, but it should be close. If it is close, I can dial it in from there.

Having said that, my current steel frame is a perfect fit, so there is some good logic in considering just using that. If I decide to stay with it, then I will take the money I would have spent on new bike and just buy a new groupset and wheelset for my steel frame. I have to decide in the next few days. I'm ready to make my final decision.

Anyone ever use the Vuelta XRP Pro SL wheels on the Motobecane in my link?? They look good, but have no experience with them.

DrWJODonnell

Save the cash, race the bike you have for a while (assuming you haven't raced much, if at all) and then consider what will help your weaknesses you find after having raced. If you are still using DT shifters, you might be at a disadvantage, as you would be with "dangerous" or questionably working equipment. But outside of that? An entry level race bike may make you FEEL better, and if it gets you to ride more, then great, but with regards to performance, I would not suspect that what you will see a tremendous improvement (save a few lbs, which I guess can be important if you are in a freaky climbing area).

I guess I would just say hold on to your money until your budget is a little bit bigger (closer to 2k) and you will be able to get a LOT more bike for your cash.

oneradtec

Thanks Doc!

The steel Ciocc I have has STI shifting. It's an older 8 speed Dura Ace group on it. Not the newest, flashiest thing in the peloton, but it works. Also, I live in coastal NC, which is pretty flat. I live in an obscure little town in teh country. I have carved out a really nice 30 mile loop around here that is low traffic, lots of pine trees, cows, old tobacco barns, etc. I have not been out there for quite some time and I'm itching to hit it once more and get the ball rolling for '09. I've been out of the sport for awhile and sold a pretty nice race bike a while back. I have not raced much in last 2-3 years, but raced a lot before that. I'm not exactly a newb, but my base fitness is ground zero....starting over...from the beginning. I gotta get a good base going. At least I still have my Cyclops fluid trainer.

punksurfer024

i love my 09 caad9 that i got for 1050. the components are lower then i want, but i can upgrade those later.

dgearhart

I sounds like you fit into the size with the most selecton 55cm - 56cm on eBay. Don't waste your money on those two cheap bikes new when you can get a great bike like this 2008 Cannondale Six13 with SRAM Rival/Red for between $1,000 (current price) and $1,500 (buy it now). I bet it goes for $1,375...when you figure in tax from Bikes Direct, you'll be within $100 of this bike and not close to its quality.... https://cgi.ebay.com/2008-Cannondale-...d=p3286.c0.m14

For me, no brainer. I have purchased probably $10k worth of bikes off eBay for about $4k....

MDcatV

race what you got, save your money, join a team, and use the discounts available to team members from sponsor shop or frame or whatever equipment supplier is there to purchase something of race quality instead of dropping your hard earned money on those types of budget offerings.

racing and training for racing are hard on equipment. although the BD offerings advertise the eye catchers by having whatever # bike with ultegra for a great price, understand that these pricepoints are hit by putting lower quality stems, forks, handlebars, brakes, cranksets, headsets, etc. (things that you dont notice being of differing quality until they fail). When these things fail, you might be rewarded with an ambulance ride.

there's a reason you don't see motobecanes, scattante, or le frame, or whatever name is being painted on them these days in the peloton above cat 4.

labrat_62

Every wrench I know cringes and runs when a motobecane comes through the door. One idea, buy the motobecane bike for the groupo, strip the frame, sell it, and buy a c-dale.

Bob Dopolina 

Have you though about upgrading the frame and wheels only and going with a new group when a deal presents itself?

You could get into a decent frame for about half of your suggested budget. With the remainder you could look at wheels.

Many Shimano compatible wheels come with 8/9/10 speed freehubs. Add new wheels to the frame, which you could use with your existing group now, and wait out a group set deal.

tbrown524

Check out the Douglas bike from Colorado Cyclist. After a couple of crashes and wrecking a carbon bike of my own and watching others do the same... I was considering picking up this bike for next season..



https://www.coloradocyclist.com/product/display/10450/

ridethecliche

They must be terrible wrenches...

Their frames are good and the parts are good, some of the assembly might be suspect, but it's the wrench's job to check that.