Just got a newly built G3 laced 32x to a Mavic Open Pro. I noticed the freehub does not spin for very long. It has not been ridden longer than me checking to make sure the PT was working. Does it just need to be broken in? Did a google search and could not find anything.
My older PT hubs don't freewheel too long either. The pawls/springs are really stout in there.
I'm still alive
Just wanted to share my experience with SRM for those looking at one.
Few reasons why I DON'T recommend SRM powermeter.
1. $$ More expensive than other options
2. $$ You have to send the crank in for battery replacement. $20 to ship to SRM, $100 new battery, $20 to ship it back to me. $140 total
3. Slow turnover. While claiming 2-3 days turn-over, it takes 5-6 business days to get the work done so between shipping times and repair you should expect at least two weeks without your powermeter.
4. Poor customer service. Spent over 30min in queue before got to talk to the SRM rep then I got a laugh when I asked about the 2-3 days turnover.
5. $$ Expect to pay more. While I sent my crank in just for battery replacement, I was told that I also have to replace the ANT+ circuit for additional $150
All in all, while others may have a great experience with SRM products and service, SRM is just not for me and I will NOT purchase another one. It is just too much hassle and my Quarq and Powertap can do the same thing without all the hassle.
Anybody looking to buy a 175mm wireless SRM?
"Cycling is primitive. You just have to pedal" - AK
"I had lactic acid coming out of my ears" - FC
"I get paid to make other people suffer on my wheel, how good is that?!" - JV
in before TR replies
i'll just put in my 2 cents. my srm and pc7 cost less than a quarq. Now with my discount quarqs cost next to nothing, so it's a bit different, but for the regular person you can get an srm for less than a brand new quarq.
Their turn around time for me was phenomenal, but once again it all depends. I have not had a chance to deal with things breaking yet *knock on wood*, but i can't imagine that they are that bad.
I've had a quarq, a ptap and an srm. my srm is the most stable, followed by my quarq, and then the ptap was the worst by far (back to cycelops 5 times in 6 months).
Did a 20 minute ftp test today...
I've got some work to do.
This time of year in Ohio, not racing cross, you should. Don't sweat it.
My self-indulgent bike blog: http://alaskanpackfodder.blogspot.com/
i just recently started riding with a powertap, and i'm having a hard time keeping my wattage steady. my garmin is set to 3s averages and i still feel it's jumpy when i feel like i'm keeping it steady. is there a learning curve for getting power to be steady? how long does that usually take? for instance the other day i did a 5 minute interval at 120% and ended up with an average of 127%. is this normal for beginner power-users?
In my experience, steadiness is almost impossible on the road due to variations in wind, grade, road surface and other things. Usually, you're given a range of watts to stay within for a given interval, and as long as you're in that range most of the time, you're good. It's easier to do it on a trainer, but still difficult.
Demain, on roule!
+1, stick to the range, not the exact number.
FWIW: I do all my 5' or longer intervals showing average power for the interval, and I am able to nail them (to the Watt) if the target is correct. My usual approach is to start a little hard, then fall back to my target in the first minute, then maintain. By the last couple intervals, if I'm feeling really good, I can raise the average about halfway through, and try to keep it going up slightly, then shoot for the new target on the next interval.
I will see the average go up or down 2W every so often, but can correct it by aiming for the right leg sensations. After about 3 minutes, the average has enough weight to it that there's very little movement.
Lost power display halfway through a cross ride. Got home and discovered the battery compartment cover had popped off the Stages. Emailed Stages, who immediately mailed me two replacement covers.
I change the battery in my srm recently (out of warranty). Took me 20 minutes. Bought the OEM battery from the distributor in Ohio for $25.
Put it back on the bike and calibrated it in 5 minutes.
If you are a little hany you can replace battery yourself and save yourself a ****load of cash.
I think jsut and teton both calibrate theirs themselves as well.
"if you ride it the way it's meant to be ridden there's no way any wife is less of a ***** than a bicycle." - gstein
Changing the batteries seems very easy, and calibration is a breeze. I can do multiple calibrations in a matter of 20 minutes (right and left small and big each with 3-4 samples in about 20 minutes, then calculating the slope is basic division and addition and multiplication).
THe only thing i can't really do is fix the pc7 headunit if it started to act up.
Just started using Power yesterday. I was surprisingly less interested in constantly looking at my power than I expected.
Maybe it's that speed and feel mean more to me in how hard I should/can push at a particular point in my ride (especially a ride with hills/large power variations). Or that every time I looked at power I either said, "yep that's about what I thought" or "I knew I was feeling s****y!" I'm not sure I could ever trust the power meter to know what effort I need more than I trust RPE.
Now trying to figure out PowerAgent.
Demain, on roule!
My Quarq is still going strong. I am not a fan of that stupid magnet though, seriouslyy ughhh.
-Cat-3-o-meter: TBD :/
Still getting used to the PowerTap. I have the Joule - is there a way to see average power without counting stoplights (when velocity = power = 0)?
Also, the unit shows cadence, but I don't have a cadence sensor. Does it estimate cadence from variations in power? It shows cadence between 90 and 100, which is pretty much how I ride so it seems accurate...
The Powertap will estimate cadence because power cannot be calculated without it.