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  1. #5101
    Making a kilometer blurry waterrockets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aaronmcd View Post
    I'll be keeping it inside with the balcony door locked. The bike will be locked to a stud through a hole in the wall as well, and I will be sleeping with my shotgun.
    That last bit is way TMI.

  2. #5102
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    Quote Originally Posted by aaronmcd View Post
    I'll be keeping it inside with the balcony door locked. The bike will be locked to a stud through a hole in the wall as well, and I will be sleeping with my shotgun.
    Based on years of sleeping with my M16, that last part can be lumpy and uncomfortable...and cold, depending on the time of year.
    Regards,
    Chuck

    Demain, on roule!

  3. #5103
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    Just got a newly built G3 laced 32x to a Mavic Open Pro. I noticed the freehub does not spin for very long. It has not been ridden longer than me checking to make sure the PT was working. Does it just need to be broken in? Did a google search and could not find anything.

  4. #5104
    Making a kilometer blurry waterrockets's Avatar
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    My older PT hubs don't freewheel too long either. The pawls/springs are really stout in there.

  5. #5105
    Senior Member Jancouver's Avatar
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    Hey gang!
    I'm still alive

    Just wanted to share my experience with SRM for those looking at one.

    Few reasons why I DON'T recommend SRM powermeter.

    1. $$ More expensive than other options
    2. $$ You have to send the crank in for battery replacement. $20 to ship to SRM, $100 new battery, $20 to ship it back to me. $140 total
    3. Slow turnover. While claiming 2-3 days turn-over, it takes 5-6 business days to get the work done so between shipping times and repair you should expect at least two weeks without your powermeter.
    4. Poor customer service. Spent over 30min in queue before got to talk to the SRM rep then I got a laugh when I asked about the 2-3 days turnover.
    5. $$ Expect to pay more. While I sent my crank in just for battery replacement, I was told that I also have to replace the ANT+ circuit for additional $150

    All in all, while others may have a great experience with SRM products and service, SRM is just not for me and I will NOT purchase another one. It is just too much hassle and my Quarq and Powertap can do the same thing without all the hassle.

    Anybody looking to buy a 175mm wireless SRM?
    "Cycling is primitive. You just have to pedal" - AK
    "I had lactic acid coming out of my ears" - FC
    "I get paid to make other people suffer on my wheel, how good is that?!" - JV

  6. #5106
    \_(ツ)_/ Ygduf's Avatar
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    in before TR replies

    twitter.com/ygduf
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  7. #5107
    Senior Member jsutkeepspining's Avatar
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    i'll just put in my 2 cents. my srm and pc7 cost less than a quarq. Now with my discount quarqs cost next to nothing, so it's a bit different, but for the regular person you can get an srm for less than a brand new quarq.

    Their turn around time for me was phenomenal, but once again it all depends. I have not had a chance to deal with things breaking yet *knock on wood*, but i can't imagine that they are that bad.

    I've had a quarq, a ptap and an srm. my srm is the most stable, followed by my quarq, and then the ptap was the worst by far (back to cycelops 5 times in 6 months).
    cat 1-o-meter: wtf am i doing??????
    Quote Originally Posted by Racer Ex View Post
    You're not dumb. You're just less smart.

  8. #5108
    Ninny globecanvas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by prana800 View Post
    Just got a newly built G3 laced 32x to a Mavic Open Pro. I noticed the freehub does not spin for very long. It has not been ridden longer than me checking to make sure the PT was working. Does it just need to be broken in? Did a google search and could not find anything.
    That is something that always bugged me about the powertap I had. It wasn't very good as a hub.

  9. #5109
    Senior Member Wylde06's Avatar
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    Did a 20 minute ftp test today...

    I've got some work to do.

  10. #5110
    Senior Member shovelhd's Avatar
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    This time of year in Ohio, not racing cross, you should. Don't sweat it.
    My 10 speed Shimano sell-off is in the Classifieds-For Sale section.

  11. #5111
    The Slow One Alaska Mike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wylde06 View Post
    Did a 20 minute ftp test today...

    I've got some work to do.
    This is the time of the year to do it. I don't even want to know what my FTP is right now, after a couple months of fighting bronchitis and various infections. I'm assuming it's equivalent to that of a 6 year old girl.
    My self-indulgent bike blog: http://alaskanpackfodder.blogspot.com/

  12. #5112
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    i just recently started riding with a powertap, and i'm having a hard time keeping my wattage steady. my garmin is set to 3s averages and i still feel it's jumpy when i feel like i'm keeping it steady. is there a learning curve for getting power to be steady? how long does that usually take? for instance the other day i did a 5 minute interval at 120% and ended up with an average of 127%. is this normal for beginner power-users?

  13. #5113
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    In my experience, steadiness is almost impossible on the road due to variations in wind, grade, road surface and other things. Usually, you're given a range of watts to stay within for a given interval, and as long as you're in that range most of the time, you're good. It's easier to do it on a trainer, but still difficult.
    Regards,
    Chuck

    Demain, on roule!

  14. #5114
    Making a kilometer blurry waterrockets's Avatar
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    +1, stick to the range, not the exact number.

    FWIW: I do all my 5' or longer intervals showing average power for the interval, and I am able to nail them (to the Watt) if the target is correct. My usual approach is to start a little hard, then fall back to my target in the first minute, then maintain. By the last couple intervals, if I'm feeling really good, I can raise the average about halfway through, and try to keep it going up slightly, then shoot for the new target on the next interval.

    I will see the average go up or down 2W every so often, but can correct it by aiming for the right leg sensations. After about 3 minutes, the average has enough weight to it that there's very little movement.

  15. #5115
    Ninny globecanvas's Avatar
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    Lost power display halfway through a cross ride. Got home and discovered the battery compartment cover had popped off the Stages. Emailed Stages, who immediately mailed me two replacement covers.

  16. #5116
    soon to be gsteinc... rkwaki's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jancouver View Post
    Hey gang!
    I'm still alive

    Just wanted to share my experience with SRM for those looking at one.

    Few reasons why I DON'T recommend SRM powermeter.

    1. $$ More expensive than other options
    2. $$ You have to send the crank in for battery replacement. $20 to ship to SRM, $100 new battery, $20 to ship it back to me. $140 total
    3. Slow turnover. While claiming 2-3 days turn-over, it takes 5-6 business days to get the work done so between shipping times and repair you should expect at least two weeks without your powermeter.
    4. Poor customer service. Spent over 30min in queue before got to talk to the SRM rep then I got a laugh when I asked about the 2-3 days turnover.
    5. $$ Expect to pay more. While I sent my crank in just for battery replacement, I was told that I also have to replace the ANT+ circuit for additional $150

    All in all, while others may have a great experience with SRM products and service, SRM is just not for me and I will NOT purchase another one. It is just too much hassle and my Quarq and Powertap can do the same thing without all the hassle.

    Anybody looking to buy a 175mm wireless SRM?
    Damn I missed this.
    I change the battery in my srm recently (out of warranty). Took me 20 minutes. Bought the OEM battery from the distributor in Ohio for $25.
    Put it back on the bike and calibrated it in 5 minutes.
    If you are a little hany you can replace battery yourself and save yourself a ****load of cash.
    I think jsut and teton both calibrate theirs themselves as well.
    "if you ride it the way it's meant to be ridden there's no way any wife is less of a ***** than a bicycle." - gstein

  17. #5117
    Roadie brian416's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arelyt View Post
    i just recently started riding with a powertap, and i'm having a hard time keeping my wattage steady. my garmin is set to 3s averages and i still feel it's jumpy when i feel like i'm keeping it steady. is there a learning curve for getting power to be steady? how long does that usually take? for instance the other day i did a 5 minute interval at 120% and ended up with an average of 127%. is this normal for beginner power-users?
    Varying power is normal even with 3sec smoothing, it will get easier to get closer to your target power for intervals. I use average lap power on my interval screen, it helps keep you on track to hit your power goal for the interval

  18. #5118
    Senior Member jsutkeepspining's Avatar
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    Changing the batteries seems very easy, and calibration is a breeze. I can do multiple calibrations in a matter of 20 minutes (right and left small and big each with 3-4 samples in about 20 minutes, then calculating the slope is basic division and addition and multiplication).

    THe only thing i can't really do is fix the pc7 headunit if it started to act up.
    cat 1-o-meter: wtf am i doing??????
    Quote Originally Posted by Racer Ex View Post
    You're not dumb. You're just less smart.

  19. #5119
    Senior Member aaronmcd's Avatar
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    Just started using Power yesterday. I was surprisingly less interested in constantly looking at my power than I expected.
    Maybe it's that speed and feel mean more to me in how hard I should/can push at a particular point in my ride (especially a ride with hills/large power variations). Or that every time I looked at power I either said, "yep that's about what I thought" or "I knew I was feeling s****y!" I'm not sure I could ever trust the power meter to know what effort I need more than I trust RPE.

    Now trying to figure out PowerAgent.

  20. #5120
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    Quote Originally Posted by aaronmcd View Post
    I'm not sure I could ever trust the power meter to know what effort I need more than I trust RPE.
    It's not an either/or thing. RPE is subjective, and will vary based on a bunch of factors such as fatigue and stress. Power is objective - 200 watts is 200 watts, doesn't matter if you're hung over, tired, worried about bills, or had a fight with your SO. For me, power is most useful in training, as in doing intervals at X percent of FTP, and in hard efforts where you have to meter your output, like a TT or a longish climb. Power can also tell you when you're toast - if your eyes are bugging out from the effort but your watts don't reflect the level of effort, something's wrong, might be time to stick a fork in that workout. It becomes more clear as you get used to the PM.
    Regards,
    Chuck

    Demain, on roule!

  21. #5121
    Powered by Borscht ovoleg's Avatar
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    My Quarq is still going strong. I am not a fan of that stupid magnet though, seriouslyy ughhh.
    -Cat-3-o-meter: TBD :/

  22. #5122
    In the Pain Cave thechemist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by globecanvas View Post
    Lost power display halfway through a cross ride. Got home and discovered the battery compartment cover had popped off the Stages. Emailed Stages, who immediately mailed me two replacement covers.
    Good to hear they got right back to you. How is the battery compartment attached?

  23. #5123
    Ninny globecanvas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thechemist View Post
    How is the battery compartment attached?
    It sort of bayonets in, with an o-ring to seal it. It's not as secure as the Quarq cover which threads on.

  24. #5124
    Senior Member aaronmcd's Avatar
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    Still getting used to the PowerTap. I have the Joule - is there a way to see average power without counting stoplights (when velocity = power = 0)?
    Also, the unit shows cadence, but I don't have a cadence sensor. Does it estimate cadence from variations in power? It shows cadence between 90 and 100, which is pretty much how I ride so it seems accurate...

  25. #5125
    Senior Member shovelhd's Avatar
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    The Powertap will estimate cadence because power cannot be calculated without it.
    My 10 speed Shimano sell-off is in the Classifieds-For Sale section.

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