I need to update my FTP. Does anyone actually just skip the formal test and just go off of MMPC 20' values?
use it as a cue to do a proper test. further, in case you haven't already done so, establish a consistent protocol -- same warm-up, same test, ideally same time of day/course/rest/etc. the more variables you control the better the comparisons over time will be. hell, if you can wear similar clothing and use the same bike/wheels/tires, that is not a bad thing -- just in case your power meter is off you may be able to use speed or distance as a check of the data (if your chosen route is on a climb/windless area or indoors (rollers/trainer)).
may not seem important now but has value over time.
NP is all about exaggerating your hard efforts and for riders like myself who like to go hard then go easy and can do that for hours, it creates a false sense of what I might be able to do for the same distance as an average in TT mode. MY rule is have fun and estimate your FTP as best you can, but don't stress over that kind of detail. I am more worried about my ability to repeat efforts and how my HR responds to those hard efforts than if my FTP might be off by 10+ watts.
Yea, I have a testing protocol that I did earlier this season (during base) that I can do again. I just didn't know if people always use a formal testing when updating/checking their FTP or if they go based off other factors.
I use formal testing. Same course.
I've been picking zones off of interval performance lately. Since I'm more likely to go too hard than too easy, this has gotten me pretty close. That said, I haven't formally threshold tested in about 2 years (when I got sick). Given my recent performance, I'm getting back on the bandwagon of monthly testing (5", 1', 5', and MAP).
I prefer setting zones based on interval values, it tends to be a bit more realistic. You can see trends/patterns more easily if you do intervals routinely.
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I use the same course, or did. Since it has 2 small descents that sap my power I may try to find something new.
cycling analytics just rolled out a nice feature that I liked. find efforts, minimum time of XXX watts
Last edited by waterrockets; 04-21-14 at 08:16 PM.
For my athletes I check 7/28/season periods weekly to see trends and adjust as the test results or charts warrant.
Powertap torque issues.
I did some file digging, and the oddly high power numbers from this week's Wednesday ride were due to Torque not being zeroed.
For months I have had no issues, then the Wednesday ride from last week shows coasting torque = 0 before the halfway break, and coasting torque = ~1.3 Nm after the break. I was getting way low, but proportional power numbers the next day so I changed the battery. Turned it on at Copperopolis Road Race and it seemed to be fine (looking back, the torque was off by 1.3 Nm for the first 1/4 or so then fixed itself). Noticed this week that I have to zero the torque every time I turn it on or it reads 1.3 to 1.5 Nm while coasting. Power will still go to zero, but only after about 5 seconds of coasting.
Damn. I'm using the original little yellow computer (PowerTap). Interface is a ridiculous USB serial device. Golden Cheetah requires FTDI drivers for the interface in Windows 7, and every year or so one of the USB ports stops working with the driver. Finally, my last port no longer works, and I can't uninstall the driver (stupid CDM utility doesn't detect it). Has anyone else dealt with this? I reinstalled GC, and rebooted. I can't find FTDI in the registry.
It's time, dude. It's time.
FTDI = "eff this damned interface?"
Demain, on roule!
Not even close. You're looking at $350 plus shipping to upgrade your wheel to G3 and $300 for a Garmin 510. This gets you a brand new power meter and a brand new head unit. You can save $100 or more if you can score a used Garmin 500 or a wireless LYC, and your old LYC is still worth $50 to someone.
I know, I know, you're one of those guys who hates software companies that deprecate functions or end of life operating systems because they did everything you needed and nothing more.
the Joule is even cheaper. $80 or so, i think
my SRM PC VI head unit won't hold a charge for more than a couple of days. What should I do?
"have fun and be kind"
- an internet post