revchuck 

I'd be pissed too. If it were bargain basement stuff, it'd be one thing, but the "gold standard?" Give 'em hell, Shovel!

One of my PT hubs (bought used) is calibrating out of the acceptable range. I'm going to do a firmware update and hope that it fixes it, but I think the cause is a non-firmware issue. Thankfully PT has changed their "complete rebuild or nothing" policy and is offering calibration repair and bearing replacement.

Hermes

I hear Quarq has great customer service...

topflightpro

Shovel, did you send them a complete crankset and only get a spider back?

revchuck 

Way to dig out that salt shaker, Hermes!

shovelhd

I sent them nothing. They were going to advance ship it to me. However I bought a crankset. They have no reason to believe that I have the tools and the knowledge to do the spider swap.

So they are sending me the tool overnight along with a new locking and Loctite. I'm going to try it myself.

Flatballer

Good luck. Sounds like more than you bargained for.

topflightpro

Ah. Ok.

What crank is it? I have the tools to swap spiders on Cannondale Hollowgrams. For those, the SRM spider presses on to the crank arm, and I can hand thread the lockring. I have found from there, through trial and error, that it is best to use a bolt to hold the mounting tool lockring and crank arm/spider together. When installing a new spider, I hand tighten the bolt as much as I can. I then lock the mounting tool into a bench vise and turn the crank arm to tighten/loosen the lockring. I adjust the tension on the bolt holding it all together as needed.

Good luck.

shovelhd

The Rotor 3D+ is similar. They told me I don't need to use a tension bolt but I can whip one up if needed.

This was the quickest way to get it working again. Not my first choice. If they had a 172.5 36/52 in stock I'd have that tomorrow instead.

tetonrider

that sucks. the dealer you bought it from should have been able to help while you were away (esp with you on vacation). did you try that route?

sorry for your trouble. sounds like they are getting everything to you, though. the cranks didn't fail, so i'd expect that had you sent it in you would have gotten your same cranks back, not new ones.

still frustrating.

shovelhd

Well I tried but I could not get the lockring off using the tool they sent me. It never really had a chance. The pins don't fully engage the lockring. I added a tension bolt but there wasn't enough bite to make it work. Sigh. I'm beyond frustrated. I'll be calling again on Monday.

shovelhd

SRM back in bizniss.

revchuck 

Coolness.

I updated the firmware on all three PT hubs, now two of them are out of calibration spec, WTF? The two that are out of spec I've only ridden once each, so I'll see if they fix themselves before I do anything rash.

shovelhd

I heard that Saris has changed their "rebuild or nothing" policy. Good luck.

revchuck 

They have, thankfully, but I'd still rather wait to see if the firmware has to "learn" the hub...or whatever it may have to do to work correctly. I may be calling them next week.

turbid

recently bought a PowerTap c1 pm and been doing some riding indoors. The power numbers I am seeing are on the lower side for the perceived effort looking at my hr. This is on the cascade fluid trainer
For eg, I was doing around 170-190w riding on 52x17 at 80rpm.
Does this seem accurate?
Will the wattage vary riding outdoors compared to indoors?

revchuck 

Going from memory, 52x17 at 80 rpm is about 19 mph. 170-190 watts is about right for me on a level road with negligible wind. I did a 28-mile ride yesterday with an average speed of 18.9 mph, average power was 181 watts.

Note that I'm 6'2" and ~190 lbs. Were I a 5'0" woman weighing 100 lbs, 181 watts would've been a bunch faster; my height but much fatter, it would've been somewhat slower. Your height, width, and position impact on how fast you go at a given power output.

You can't do a straight-line comparison with power, HR, and RPE. Power is what it is, HR will vary with temperature, fatigue and hydration status, and RPE can vary based on life stresses and fatigue. You'll get a better feel for this as you gain experience with the power meter.

ETA: Yesterday's and today's scheduled workouts were the same: 1:30 at endurance pace. Yesterday's was on the road bike, today's was on the TT bike. Route and conditions were the same. Note that today I went farther, faster, and in less time than yesterday...at 20 watts less average power. Not scientific, but it shows the difference position makes in terms of power.

PepeM

Different trainers have different power curves. The power needed to move at x speed varies. Look for the power curve of your trainer, check what speed you were riding at, and compare to the number your power meter was giving you. Should be close but don't expect it to be exact. Factors such as weight, tires used, tire pressure, clamping force, etc. will bring some uncertainty.

ancker

Some will say yes, some will say no.

In my experience, despite big fans, lots of water, etc, I have trouble maintaining the same watts indoors as I do outdoors.

As it was explained to me, outdoors, you get to coast/rest. Even when you think you're pedaling 100% of the time, you still get these micro rests that add up over time. When on a fluid trainer, you get none of these rests because the fluid mechanism is actively working to slow you down. So the same watts are more difficult to maintain.

Doge

Me the "anti-power" guy here looking to get 4-5 PM for a college team. I still think PT in the wheel is the best team option as you can't dictate pedals, can't change cranks.
Other options?

This looks cool, but left only, Q-factor - and not available yet...
https://limits.technology/setup/

I like hubs. I want both pedals and hubs. I really want VO2 max and hubs. I'll have to wait.

tetonrider

most likely never: LIMITS Power Meter: Really cool or really fake? | DC Rainmaker

the interesting thing to me w/r/t power is that people keep lining up for the new stuff, believing/hoping that it will be flawless when history tells us every new device had problems until a design stabilized (which has taken up to a decade for some products and never for others).

PT hub seems great. you've got some wheels (like a zipp 404) that are burly enough for daily use and great for racing, too.

Hermes

I have two PT hubs...one for road and one for track. The moment I purchased my first Pt hub, I wished that I had the ability to measure power using my race wheels and if i wanted power for racing either TT or mass start, i had to use an inferior wheel solution. I had to send the PT road hub back since it failed soon after I purchased it. Also, that hub calculates virtual cadence and therefore cadence is sometimes way off. I use a Garmin cadence sensor to indicate accurate cadence.

The track hub works okay but cadence is also a problem and requires a separate cadence sensor. And even though, I have the hub on training wheels, race power is not as critical for the track and quite frankly very difficult to measure due to fast transient nature of track power production such that time per lap or distance is a better measure of performance.

My road PT hub is on my backup road bike.

BTSyndrome

I'm new to this power stuff ( have only had it for two months) and reading and learning a lot,
but on Golden Cheetah I cannot find where it gives FTP.
Does it not recognize an FTP test done on a Garmin 520?
I assume it is some what close to the 20 min peak power, maybe ??

Here is what I have under the trends menu....
power as of 8-9.jpg

and also is there a way I can put the bottom values in order like 5 sec, 10 sec, 20 sec etc. instead of how it shows now?

Thanks in advance for any help.
Opps... sorry, disregard. i found FTP under the CP menu.
But if someone could explain how to arrange the bottom values in order I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks

Dutch Jazz

Hey, for ordering the Ahtletes Best list go to
Options
Metrics
Bests

and use the "up" and "down" arrows in the middle to organize it the way you want it.
You can also remove or add metrics here like NP or average power.

Doge

LIMITS came back with a nice price for Sept delivery for the team (not me).
I also ordered 4 PT GS. Rumor is the are out-of-stock but the website took my money just fine (and it shows on my CC online).
The college kids do track, road, MTB and cross, typically only two overlap per season. So now they are doing track and MTB training. Cross is winter. Road is spring. If a LIMITS did work - good option.

I think winter may be better spent in the gym, trainers and track than 7,200ft+ doing cross.

mike868y

just ordered a pwoermeter for my cx bike so...we'll see how useless that is. if nothing else it'll make me far more likely to use that bike as a winter training rig.