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Originally Posted by kindablue
(Post 17214457)
Haven't been around in awhile, but some of ya'll are obsessive as me so...
I'm contemplating of selling my 10 spd red group to upgrade to 11spd DA. The goal would be to stay with the times, try to offload the red group while I can still get a decent price for it. Anyone want to take a stab at what a 10 spd red group is worth (no crank, force calipers)? The group has less than 1 year of riding on it (old new stock at a bike shop), and is the generation before the yaw came out. I was thinking of listing for 6-700. I already sold my old 404s to get rid of the 10 spd race wheels before they lost too much value, so the # of wheelsets is just one simple fulcrum 7 set. Worth it, or should I just ride the red stuff into the ground? FWIW I actually love the red stuff, I always ride an 11-28 cassette. |
Without crank and Force brakes, I'd guess it would be more in the $400-$450 range. The price on that 10-speed Red stuff has plummeted with the release of the Yaw and now 11-speed. You can scan eBay completed listings for prices. With Red cranks, they are going in the $600 range. Without, $400.
For example: SRAM Red 2009 2010 Road Bike Group 10 Speed Used See Description | eBay |
Anyone here try using HRV as a supplemental way to gauge training stress/ fatigue/ overtraining ? I am intrigued.
Heart Rate Variability (HRV) - The Science behind HRV Since researchers first found significant changes in the nervous systems of athletes involved in hard training for the rowing world championships (Iellamo, 2002), a number of studies have tried to use HRV as a tool to monitor overtraining. In general such studies show that HRV is much lower in overtrained athletes than healthy ones (Mourot, 2004). The problem is, when you are overtrained it is too late. It might take weeks or months to get back to full fitness, so what you need is a daily measure to tell you how well your nervous system is doing. Daily monitoring using standard HRV methods have shown that listening to you heart via HRV can not only stop you overtraining but actually make your training more effective. (Manzi, 2009). The idea is quite simple. Monitor your HRV every morning and train as normal. If your HRV drops significantly, take this as an early warning that you are overloading the system. A small drop is OK as long as you recover. Training is, after all, about stress and recovery and a hard session, especially on top of accumulated fatigue, will lower your HRV. But if your HRV stays low even with rest you could be on the edge of trouble. In my opinion, using daily HRV to monitor training stress is the best thing you can do to make your training safe and effective. So listen to your heart. |
Originally Posted by topflightpro
(Post 17215139)
Without crank and Force brakes, I'd guess it would be more in the $400-$450 range. The price on that 10-speed Red stuff has plummeted with the release of the Yaw and now 11-speed. You can scan eBay completed listings for prices. With Red cranks, they are going in the $600 range. Without, $400.
For example: SRAM Red 2009 2010 Road Bike Group 10 Speed Used See Description | eBay |
Originally Posted by Wesley36
(Post 17215616)
Anyone here try using HRV as a supplemental way to gauge training stress/ fatigue/ overtraining ? I am intrigued.
Heart Rate Variability (HRV) - The Science behind HRV I'd say it's helpful, especially in persuading some of the kids that they need to recover as well as train. They seem to find it easier to take advice from some numbers on a screen than from their coaches. |
Originally Posted by caloso
(Post 17216117)
A teammate just listed a 2013 Red group on a local facebook page for $700. Includes everything but the crankset. Perhaps that's a little high, so I will be interested to see if he gets it.
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Anyone here have any experience with Challenge tires? Durability in particular.
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Originally Posted by chasm54
(Post 17232426)
Yes. The iThlete people gave our team some freebies. It seems to work pretty well - at least, the readings seem consistent with training and racing stress. And occasionally it tells you something you wouldn't know otherwise. For example, one of our guys got a low reading when he felt fine and hadn't been overdoing it. The next day he developed a sore throat, so presumably the HRV had been influenced by the fact that he was incubating a virus.
I'd say it's helpful, especially in persuading some of the kids that they need to recover as well as train. They seem to find it easier to take advice from some numbers on a screen than from their coaches. |
1 Attachment(s)
Finally finished my new front wheel. I have had it.laced up in my truing stand since late spring, finally got around to truing and tensioning it up. Psyched to finally ride it!
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=413939 |
Originally Posted by Wesley36
(Post 17248108)
Finally finished my new front wheel. I have had it.laced up in my truing stand since late spring, finally got around to truing and tensioning it up. Psyched to finally ride it!
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=413939 |
Originally Posted by hack
(Post 17236440)
Anyone here have any experience with Challenge tires? Durability in particular.
EDIT. They're a bit of a PITA to fit, I destroyed a couple of latex tubes getting them onto the rim. |
Originally Posted by chasm54
(Post 17248262)
Well, I have experience, but it's recent so I can't help much with regard to durability. I'm currently running a set of Challenge Criterium "open tubulars". With regard to feel and grip I'd say they're the best clinchers I have ridden, they have some of the cushy feel of a genuine tub and they grip like crazy, I definitely feel better about hard cornering (I previously had Conti GP on the bike). Can't say how well they'll last. TPI is very high so puncture resistance is good, but the compound is pretty soft so they may wear fast. Too soon to say.
EDIT. They're a bit of a PITA to fit, I destroyed a couple of latex tubes getting them onto the rim. |
Originally Posted by robabeatle
(Post 17248147)
What rims?
This morning I went out for a 60km ride, looking for crosswinds. There were a few times the wind picked up from the side, enough that I was having to lean into it, and there was no steering related excitement - certainly not worse than my 30mm box section alu rims. So far, so good. PS Just realized, there are profiles and basic specs for the 45, 50 and 88mm deep UPower rims about halfway down this page: Wheelbuilding ? VeloVida |
Originally Posted by hack
(Post 17249170)
Thanks! From what I've read, they look like they'd be a good racer, but maybe not the best training tires. I've also heard they do stretch a bit over time, so they should get easier to put on. Hope they last for you.
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Originally Posted by wens
(Post 17249421)
I've ridden their cross tubulars, would that be any help for your question?
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Originally Posted by hack
(Post 17249437)
Any feedback is good. Basically, good quality and happy with them? Granted, I'll be using road tires...
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I'm getting an annoying once-per-revolution ticking sound from my new-to-me Reynolds 66 tubulars. I'm guessing that it's due to the valve extensions moving in their holes. I'm considering sticking a toothpick in there and securing it with electrical tape. Any suggestions for a more elegant fix would be appreciated, as would suggestions about what else might cause that ticking.
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Why use toothpicks when tape alone will do?
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Originally Posted by gsteinb
(Post 17250897)
Why use toothpicks when tape alone will do?
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I learned this one the hard way. Check the glue around the valve stem. If it's not solidly glued in that area the tire will stick and unstick every revolution, making a ticking sound.
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shovel - The tires were installed with Tufo tape, don't know if that would affect things.
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Originally Posted by revchuck
(Post 17250984)
I put the valve extensions on with Teflon tape, I'm afraid if I unscrew them to wrap them with tape that there might be a problem putting them back on. I don't want to go through the hassle of pulling off and re-installing a tubular if I screw that part up.
Amazon.com : BAUSF6000 - PlastiBands, Size 4-1/4, 100/BX, Assorted Colors : Rubber Bands : Office Products buy some of those. take a black one, loop one end on exposed valve stem, around a spoke, and put other end on valve stem. Pulls the step to one edge and no more clicky. push next to the rim, can't see it. Use plastibands as rubber band will split right away and age very fast. |
Thanks, Fudgy!
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Originally Posted by revchuck
(Post 17212461)
The "33" is the racing forum, while the "41" is the road forum. The numbers have no significance outside of Bikeforums.
Strange. I thought there would be some sort of origin for those specific numbers. |
Look at the URL.
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