Originally Posted by Bob Dopolina
(Post 11236495)
As you suggest KOPS is a neutral starting point and a good place to put beginners.
The real issue here is that it doesn't account for femur/tibia ratios. I can't pull the exact number out of my arse anymore (and would be VERY appreciative of anyone who could remind me) and I believe the theory was somehow attributed to or adhered to by Hinault. The idea is that there is a ratio to consider between these two bones. Riders who fall on the femur dominant side of the equation (see Jocylen Lovell) tend to run lower saddles, have a slightly more rearward position and tend to ride at a lower cadence. Riders who are Tibia dominant favour a slightly higher and more forward position. They also tend to ride at higher cadence and be on top of the gear a bit more. It's been my observation that these riders also tend to be more toe pointers (heel up) than previous riders who are much more likely to drop their heels (nice tie in to your previous post, non?) and power across the gear. Seriously, if anyone can recall where this comes from I'd love to revisit this information. |
umd, i can admit when i'm incorect. 8 pages and so far so good.
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Is the Nokon cable housing a worthwhile buy? You can re-use the alu pieces over and over right, just replace the liner? [strike]Does 1 "kit" provide enough of to do both shift and brake cables?[/strike] (I see they sell both shifting and brake sets now)
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Originally Posted by Ygduf
(Post 11237609)
Is the Nokon cable housing a worthwhile buy?
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I had silver and it corroded in a season, but I've used red ones for 2 seasons now without any problems. I reuse the outers and liners, and just put new cables in.
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Originally Posted by umd
(Post 11237851)
I had silver and it corroded in a season, but I've used red ones for 2 seasons now without any problems. I reuse the outers and liners, and just put new cables in.
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Originally Posted by Bob Dopolina
(Post 11236495)
As you suggest KOPS is a neutral starting point and a good place to put beginners.
The real issue here is that it doesn't account for femur/tibia ratios. I can't pull the exact number out of my arse anymore (and would be VERY appreciative of anyone who could remind me) and I believe the theory was somehow attributed to or adhered to by Hinault. The idea is that there is a ratio to consider between these two bones. Riders who fall on the femur dominant side of the equation (see Jocylen Lovell) tend to run lower saddles, have a slightly more rearward position and tend to ride at a lower cadence. Riders who are Tibia dominant favour a slightly higher and more forward position. They also tend to ride at higher cadence and be on top of the gear a bit more. It's been my observation that these riders also tend to be more toe pointers (heel up) than previous riders who are much more likely to drop their heels (nice tie in to your previous post, non?) and power across the gear. Seriously, if anyone can recall where this comes from I'd love to revisit this information. |
Originally Posted by Ygduf
(Post 11237880)
do you notice a different feel braking, or is that marketing?
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Some other cables to consider are Yokozuna or however you spell that. I love mine and they seem to be lasting quite a while.
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Originally Posted by Ygduf
(Post 11237880)
do you notice a different feel braking, or is that marketing?
All my Nokons corrode. I have 4 or 5 sets of each (brake, der), have combined to get 3 bikes worth. I skip the steel coil housing under the tape on some (all? I forget) my bikes. Nokon kind of cheats and gives you a piece of steel coil housing for under the tape. I think Nokons corrode once you scratch or chip the coating. |
Another big-butt rider behind KOPS. I've experimented with moving my saddle up and forward, but I would never feel centered.
Re Cal racers on Spec/SRAM: Not everyone, but close to a plurality I bet. |
Originally Posted by Flatballer
(Post 11238000)
Some other cables to consider are Yokozuna or however you spell that. I love mine and they seem to be lasting quite a while.
I want to try those once the Jagwire cables need replacing; I hear they work really well with SRAM and improve shifting. Are you running them on SRAM or Shimano? |
Originally Posted by caloso
(Post 11238033)
Re Cal racers on Spec/SRAM: Not everyone, but close to a plurality I bet.
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Originally Posted by ijen0311
(Post 11234688)
What percent of the racers at a typical race are women? I want to get into it, but I don't want to be the only one. It would be intimidating.
You should try racing with the guys and see what happens! |
Originally Posted by roadiejorge
(Post 11238060)
I want to try those once the Jagwire cables need replacing; I hear they work really well with SRAM and improve shifting. Are you running them on SRAM or Shimano?
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Originally Posted by Flatballer
(Post 11238284)
SRAM. I heard they were much better than SRAM stock stuff, and they are. It makes a good group (Force 2010) into an awesome group.
I have a wheel related question for those who are savvy with wheel repairs. Recently I keep popping a spoke in the rear in one particular section of my ride which fortunately is not far from home. The road is very well paved and smooth, it's a slight incline that bears right and I usually sprint up to keep the momentum going but when I get in the drops and sprint I hear the sound of a spoke popping. They are Williams System 19s which have been fine until recently where I've had to replace spokes 3 times in the past few months. |
My diagnosis: TOO MUCH POWAH!
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Originally Posted by roadiejorge
(Post 11238370)
That's what I hear so I'm assuming they'll make the Rival I have even better.
I have a wheel related question for those who are savvy with wheel repairs. Recently I keep popping a spoke in the rear in one particular section of my ride which fortunately is not far from home. The road is very well paved and smooth, it's a slight incline that bears right and I usually sprint up to keep the momentum going but when I get in the drops and sprint I hear the sound of a spoke popping. They are Williams System 19s which have been fine until recently where I've had to replace spokes 3 times in the past few months. |
Originally Posted by roadiejorge
(Post 11238370)
That's what I hear so I'm assuming they'll make the Rival I have even better.
I have a wheel related question for those who are savvy with wheel repairs. Recently I keep popping a spoke in the rear in one particular section of my ride which fortunately is not far from home. The road is very well paved and smooth, it's a slight incline that bears right and I usually sprint up to keep the momentum going but when I get in the drops and sprint I hear the sound of a spoke popping. They are Williams System 19s which have been fine until recently where I've had to replace spokes 3 times in the past few months. |
Originally Posted by Creakyknees
(Post 11238497)
don't just replace the spoke; have the entire wheel checked for proper tension.
I'm probably under the incorrect assumption that they would check the wheel for proper tension because it just makes sense to do. I'll specify that then and see how it goes because I've become hesitant using that wheel set because I don't want to pop a spoke and end up stranded.
Originally Posted by mcjimbosandwich
(Post 11238586)
Jorge, i run yokozuna shifter cables on my sram set up & i think it's great. you can get the shifter set for cheap from a store called outside outfitters. the only bad thing about them is that they are stingy on the cable, so the final bend to your RD is going to be very sharp, but that's more aesthetics than anything else.
;) |
I don't remember having any problems with the RD length. Was it the cable or the housing that was short for you? I have housing left over I think, but I don't remember if I had much cable left.
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Jeez I leave for a week and we starting inviting them in?!
I'll admit it's a decent thread though. |
Originally Posted by ZeCanon
(Post 11239182)
Jeez I leave for a week and we starting inviting them in?!
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Originally Posted by roadiejorge
(Post 11238821)
I'm probably under the incorrect assumption that they would check the wheel for proper tension because it just makes sense to do. I'll specify that then and see how it goes because I've become hesitant using that wheel set because I don't want to pop a spoke and end up stranded.
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Originally Posted by heckler
(Post 11234390)
I never see full fingers at my races, have I just missed it? The scabs just came off my knuckles from when I crashed early July. My half finger gloves basically disintigrated on impact, though my bibs and jersey held up very well. Are there half fingers that offer more protections than others?
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