echappist

there are also different types of intervals. longer ones (e.g. 2x20, 3x15, etc) build your threshold, while shorter ones (with the "on" duration at 5min or less) are VO2 max intervals that develops more of your anaerobic system. then you get all out intervals that work on pure top end speed.

intervals are actually my favorite workouts: anything beats a dull ride in central park

carpediemracing 

Crit racing is about getting used to making those big efforts (out of corners and such) and tactics (knowing when not to make those efforts).

So intervals will help. So will following your teammates and doing what they do (which, if they race "smart", will help with tactics).

cdr

kudude

paging psimet.

paging psimet.

carpediemracing 

robncircus, not psimet (unless he rides it too)

robncircus has a review, lemme find...

Here.

kudude

hey, thanks. scary to realize I know the real names of two Robs on an online message board. If I started to think about the names I could connect to the internet personas.....hmmm. Interesting.

kensuf

for crits, you need to do short hard burst efforts and quick recovery. Bocks of 15/15's (15s on, 15s off), or "dirty-30's" (30s on, 30s off) are good for that.

wens

My bike (CAAD9 6) is making a creaking/clicking noise. Creaking noise when I'm out of the saddle, and clicking seems to get louder as cadence increases. It happens both when I'm out of the saddle, and when I ride no hands. It also happens in both chainrings and across multiple cogs. I've checked the quick releases, and the click is still present when I'm spun out. All of the above lead me to believe that it's the pedals/BB that are making noise.

Question 1 is have I missed anything up to this point.

I greased the pedal spindles (speedplay X5), which I thought/hoped were the cause of the problem. That didn't fix it.
Question 2 is what else should I check before I rebuild the entire BB?

Apologies for the common sense things I'm sure I'm missing.

Homebrew01

The cups might just be a tiny bit loose.

mitty2328

Sorry for the late response to my intervals question. But thanks to all the responded. Do you do intervals in seconds or minutes?

umd

Depends... usually the intervals are in minutes in the notation like 2x20, 5x5, etc. The ones that kensuf posted are in seconds. I've done a bunch of 30-30s. They hurt, but they help, I think. If you really want to hurt yourself, try 40-20 (40s on, 20s off).

Grumpy McTrumpy

grease those cleats before you try anything else.

wens

They've been lubed w/ teflon stuff, and the creaking at least occurred when I was pedaling around my driveway barefoot (great idea I know) to see if the creaking stopped after I greased the pedals.

How would I check if the cups are loose?

carpediemracing 

Most common reason I find (and the reason pros don't have them): replaceable dropout. Make sure it's lubed. Take it off, slather area with anti-seize or grease or something, reinstall.

A lot of pros (including many that were "Cannondale" riders) would have bikes with normal hangers. Gets rid of creak. And if they trashed the frame, they'd just get another one.

cdr

Velo Gator

Here's mine for the night.

When my front brake is closed, the drive side pad rubs but the other side is far off the tire. The adjustment guides I see online don't look like my brakes. I have Ultegra. How do I get them spaced evenly?

rankin116

Regular Ultegra calipers? Keep the caliper bolt running through the fork a bit loose, and then you can simply adjust the caliper with your hand.

Velo Gator

I don't know what that is...

Nevermind, think I got it. The little hex bolt opposite the brake line?

Edit again, got it! Thanks!!

shovelhd

Creaking with speedplays: keep them very clean. Use the speeplay graphite lube every three rides and after riding in the rain. The next thing to check is your QR skewers. Undo them and tighten them back up nice and tight. Next, torque the stem bolts using a torque wrench. I would do all of this before touching the BB. My Felt had squeaking, creaking, and groaning for the first 1K miles. I did all of the above, and now it's quiet.

zzzwillzzz

yes the little hex is for centering

Crash716

kinda...we covered in the foo of road cycling.

roadiejorge 

I was tempted to create a thread in the 41 but the chance of getting a good answer here seems more probable. Today I noticed that when I engage the rear brake I hear a thumping sound, so I checked the brake pads (which need replacing soon), and made sure the wheel was on correctly. There's no thumping sound while I'm riding, only when braking. Any ideas?

umd

It's possible that the rim has been worn unevenly, is slightly out of true, something is embedded in the rim that the pad is catching on, or the seam where the end of the rim were joined are uneven.

roadiejorge 

They're new rims so I don't think it's any wear. I'll check the rim for anything that might be embedded.

umd

I would bet it's just the seam.

Flatballer

new wheels tend to go out of true as things settle in. They need to be trued again after a couple hundred miles. It's possible that's what happened and they're just a little out of true.

big john

I've had a very worn wheel thump when it developes a low spot near the weld. When that happens it's time for a new rim. Any kind of flat spot from railroad tracks or potholes would do it, too, or, like umd said, it could just be the seam where the wheel is joined.