TMonk

What do you think the rake is on this fork:

[IMG]<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/34107262@N03/6828209238" title="IMG_0150 by crzybastard2, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7203/6828209238_b1e0166344_s.jpg" width="75" height="75" alt="IMG_0150"></a>[/IMG]

topflightpro

I went to replace my cables and housing this weekend, when I noticed my rear derailleur cable was rubbing on my frame. The cable exits the guide and cuts across the frame before going to the RD.

I never noticed it before, but it I guess it's been doing that since I bought it in late 2012. The cable has worn a nice groove into the frame. I've talked with my LBS and sent this photo, among others, for a possible warranty claim. The LBS said they've not seen this happen on any other bikes.

Homebrew01

I give up, what ?

TMonk

Flickr is being pretty weird. I'm having trouble copying the appropriate image URL into the insert image window here on BF. I'll d!ck around with it a little more today in order to get a proper image.

Bike is a 90's centurion "Dave Scott" ironman road bike. Steel lugged, steel fork. It is my primary training bike, equipped with shimano 6600 and dura ace DT shifters. I would like to convert the front end to 1" threadless, and don't know what rake(s) to consider for the new fork I will purchase. Additionally, I would like to tighten up the handling a little bit, if that can be achieved by a fork with different rake.

Homebrew01

I was able to get to the link and see it. Rake looks fairly small already.
You can measure it if you take it off the bike and lay it on the countertop.

TMonk

It feels like a boat compared to my CAAD9

revchuck 

Yup...I've got the same two bikes, and the Ironman is like a cabin cruiser compared to the CAAD9. I'm going to race the Ironman once this year, just to do it.

TMonk

^
Hah, small world. I remember you mentioning your Centurion before.

I rode and raced my first 1.5 seasons exclusively on the Centurion, during college. Those were good times.

Homebrew01

You can slide the rear wheel 3/4" forward. Probably won't make any difference. I guess it's not really criterium geometry, maybe shallower head tube angle.

save10

kinda depressing that this thread is what the 41 should be....instead of the sad reality of the current 41

kindablue

Anyone have any favorite 3rd party seat posts? The tarmac (SL4) post seat clamp thingy has been screwing with my short seams and comfort. I've been thinking about a zipp post. Any opinions on other posts? I do run a lot of set back so I was looking for at least 20mm (that puts Thompson out of the question).

Ygduf

thomson seatposts ftw.

you said they are out of the question, but you should reconsider and just move your saddle forward and drop you bars more

hack

Williams. Low cost, lightweight, 25mm set back. ~$95.

shovelhd

I switched from a 3T to a Specialized, which works better with the carbon railed Toupe.

revchuck 

I swapped out the Specialized seatpost I was using on my CAAD9 for an Easton x70 aluminum one. Easy to adjust, doesn't move once you set it, 20mm setback, cheap.

topflightpro

Of all the posts I've used, I like the Specialized post with the sideways bolt best. But I hear that isn't good for carbon rails, which I don't have.

I like it simply because it is the easiest to adjust.

Selle Italia Monolink is pretty good too.

From an adjustment standpoint, Thomson is OK. FSA is less OK. Argon 18 posts are the absolute worst. I'm not sure why they designed a four-bolt post (two for fore-aft and two for tilt) but it is a nightmare to adjust.

caloso

Can you recommend a minimalist saddle bag? Just big enough for a tube, levers, patches, and tube of glue. And without a Velcro strap on the seat post.

himespau 

I keep thinking I'd like to give one of these a try at some point. Not sure about lightweight, but they do seem a bit minimalist.

revchuck 

I've been using one of these for the past three years. I'm really happy with it.

shovelhd

Arundel Dual.

thechemist

Ok, q factor question. Looking at used srm cranksets. Some rotor 3D+, some shimano some cannondale etc. I have the tarmac SL4 pro. I have found a workaround for the majority of SRMs to fit OSBB but I would like ideal setup aside from forking over for the optimal specialized spider due to $$.

with rotor 3D+ it looks like I will need a fair amount of spacers. with regards to q factor will this be less than ideal and is a larger qfactor number even a big deal aside from ground clearance? ie more efficient?

Same general question for other cranksets but I tend to beat around the bush if I continue to babble.

shovelhd

I would avoid spacers and adapters if possible. They work, but they are a compromise. I went from a GXP with BB30 adapters to straight BB30. The Q was the same but the crank is noticably stiffer.

revchuck 

Here is a possibility. It's marketed as a conversion rather than an adapter. I've got no idea how well it works, just putting it out there.

thechemist

Thanks guys! Time to call praxis and see what it's all about. Makes sense to avoid adapters if possible

rankin116

+1. Fits the description perfectly.