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  1. #1
    Senior Member graphs's Avatar
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    Adjustmenst for easy wheel swapping

    This maybe a 41 question but i think it pertains to racing more than not.

    I have been trying to set up my brakes so that when I swap between wheels they are reasonably well adjusted for all my wheelsets. It seems that when they are set up nicely for one wheelset, they are completely out of whack for another. I'm wondering if there is a trick to this and I'm just doing it wrong or is it just a fact of life that different hubs are going to orient the rim differently between the brakes.

    I have not had to change wheels mid-race yet but when it does happen I'd like to be able to close the quick release without encountering brake rub.

  2. #2
    fair weather cyclist pjcampbell's Avatar
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    That is my experience
    When i go from zipp 303 clincher to 202 tubular with the same hub, i have to readjust entirely from cable length to brake pad height. So you would ideally have similar or same rim and hub I guess.

  3. #3
    Senior Member ericm979's Avatar
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    You should not have to adjust brake pad height between wheels unless you have those funky carbon clinchers with the lowered brake track.
    If some of your rear wheels are incorrectly dished, fix them.

    All my wheels are close enough that I can swap them and not make adjustments to brake or derailleur.

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    Making a kilometer blurry waterrockets's Avatar
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    ^^^^ +1

    I've never had to make adjustments to brakes for different AL clinchers either. Can you elaborate on what you're having to do?

  5. #5
    Senior Member graphs's Avatar
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    Both my good rear wheels are factory built so I would assume (maybe incorrectly) that they would be properly dished (Dura Ace 7850 clinchers and Easton EC90 Aero tubulars). It's not the height so much as how they're centred between the brake pads. The problem exists on the front as well, though to a lesser extent.

  6. #6
    I eat carbide. Psimet2001's Avatar
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    Even with different height brake tracks - which I run into a lot - you shouldn't have to mess too aweful much with them.

    What I usually find are problems with others is the dishing of the wheel and the thickness of the pads.

    If your wheels are all relatively the same then set the brakes up to be the tightest on the widest rim. Then you should only have to adjust cable tension after that.

  7. #7
    I eat carbide. Psimet2001's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by graphs View Post
    Both my good rear wheels are factory built so I would assume (maybe incorrectly) that they would be properly dished (Dura Ace 7850 clinchers and Easton EC90 Aero tubulars). It's not the height so much as how they're centred between the brake pads. The problem exists on the front as well, though to a lesser extent.
    if they both aren't centered then it's the dish. Period. That's how you measure it.

    Take a front and flip it around. The gap on one side should now be on the other side. If the gaps stay the same then that wheel is centerd and the other is incorrectly dished.

  8. #8
    Senior Member graphs's Avatar
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    I think that is my problem. I set up the brakes so they're the perfect, equal distance on the Eastons but when I put the DAs on and close the quick release, one side of the brakes is pressed right against the rim. I guess I'll try setting up on the DAs and see if the problem exists in reverse.

  9. #9
    Senior Member graphs's Avatar
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    Ok, gonna test that tonight. Hopefully it's not the tubs that need to be redished. Thanks fellas.

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