i have another road group and a TT group for sale. i'll get around to officially selling it, but if it is something you want sooner hit me up. usually takes me a while to get around to selling things, then i go into big batch mode on ebay.
also interesting stuff--one can take a non-11s-compatible zipp wheel, replace the shimano/sram free hub with a campy one (takes about 60 seconds and costs $60), pop on a campy cassette....and you've got a wheel that works with 11s shimano/sram drivetrains.
i've tested and it shifts perfectly...didn't even adjust the RD. campy cassettes cost a bit more than shimano and weigh a bit more (e.g. chorus vs ultegra) but this is an interesting option for (a) people who don't want to spend $300 and send a 2012 wheel back to zipp to re-dish and especially (b) those who have pre-2012 zipp wheels who supposedly have no options for 11s.
i was planning to sell some zipps (202 tubular set, 404 FC CC rear, 808 FC rear and super 9 disc) but now am not so sure.
I learned something new last weekend. When I was warming up for my second race my bike was making this nasty crunchy cracking sound. At first I thought it might be a BB30 bearing, but it sounded like it was coming from the rear wheel. There was a pit crew on hand at the line. I went over there to swap wheels with my pit wheels but they offered to take a look at it. They lubed the skewer end first, no dice. The wheel is a pre dimple 404. So in the next 30 seconds he has the axle out with the cassette attached and says my free hub pawls are rusty and completely dry. He lubes it puts it all back together in 60 seconds, takes it for a ride and it's silent. I guess these hubs spin so well because they have crappy seals and need to be lubed periodically. I had no idea. After the race while picking up my pit wheels he hands me a pin oiler of lube to use in the future. I hand him some cash for his efforts and thank him for sponsoring the race. Good people at Bicycle World of NY.
The good news is, he has finally started mellowing with age. He's now 67 and the last couple of visits have been huge improvements over anything previous. Weirdly, I think the actual proximate cause for the change has been that my brother in law, formerly a big drinker, has had to quit for extreme health reasons (almost died this year due to alcohol-related pneumonia), which means we can't drink at family get togethers, which means my stepmom who also has a drinking problem can't drink, which means we don't enter into the familiar cycle of her getting mildly aggressive with my sister and my dad zoning out and retreating into his own world.
I know that's TMI but my point is that (1) self-absorption can be a behavioral disorder instead of (or in addition to) simple selfishness, and (2) breaking out of longstanding family social dynamics could potentially improve the situation.
In any case, I hope things improve for you.
I don't know what all these numbers mean. Someone able to parse it out? I'm hoping to go 10 speed Di2 sometime soon. My 7800 stuff is getting kinda worn. I realize that stuff may not be around anymore when that happens though.
what's a campy casette cost compared to shimano though? don't they use the tears of pre sacrifice virgins in the manufacturing process?
If you want to go to 10 speed di2, it sounds like tetonrider might have some parts to go.
11 speed is pointless for me. I'd go back to eight if I could. 10 speed could in theory be a less expensive way to go electronic. If not and there's a cheap work around for my current wheels...
Just used the auto-sync feature from Garmin Connect to Training Peaks for the first time. It works slicker than snot on a doorknob. No more manual upload to Garmin Connect and TP, just plug my 500 into my laptop and both get done automatically.
Demain, on roule!
9000 - 11 speed Dura Ace mechanical current
7900 - 10 speed Dura Ace mechanical one generation old
6800 - 11 speed Ultegra mechanical current
6700 - 10 speed Ultegra mechanical one generation old
9070 - 11 speed Dura Ace electronic current
7970 - 10 speed Dura Ace electronic one generation old
6870 - 11 speed Ultegra electronic current
6770 - 10 speed Ultegra electronic one generation old
7970 is first generation electronic and is incompatible with later electronic groups. All others can be mixed and matched to some degree. 6700 can be upgraded to 11 speed with a firmware flash and an 11 speed rear derailleur. This upgrade path is the best bang for the buck right now. Buy a used 6770 group and a 6870 RD and with a flash you have 11 speed electronic for a few hundred less than new 6870.
If you go 7970, just realize you are buying obsolete equipment. At some point Shimano will stop manufacturing wear parts for it. Most wiring for example has to be special ordered from Shimano.
Another thing to to consider is whether your frame is set up for electronic or whether it will have to be drilled for it.
I have no idea what you guys are talking about with all these parts swaps. I have a sram force group set on my road bikes. 10 speed, about 5 years old, and works well. why would I switch to anything else?
on my tt bike, I have an ultegra da combo. I don't know what number it is, but it's 10 speed. for all the more shifting I do in TTs, I cant imagine gaining benefit from something more fancy.
Aftermarket cassettes are out there, but even more money.
basically my 7800 is pretty old now…older than your components, and it's starting to be a bit finicky. other than that I'd not consider changing anything.
Another guy who has finished 3 RAAMs solo, is a heartless dick when in the training mode. He's easier to talk to now that he's not racing those things.