Originally Posted by Ygduf
(Post 16268964)
what part of wide rims don't you guys trust or like?
when I bought some 23mm HEDs with 25mm tires, I felt like it was a revelation. Super smooth, great for descending.
Originally Posted by Ygduf
(Post 16268964)
what part of wide rims don't you guys trust or like?
when I bought some 23mm HEDs with 25mm tires, I felt like it was a revelation. Super smooth, great for descending. I should add the disclaimer that I am a very light rider, I race at about 125 lbs and I run even 23mm tires at about 80f/85r most of the time. Even at pressures that low, I think I'm light enough that I'm not folding the tire much, so I don't detect any difference in cornering precision between wide and skinny rims. You've got, what, 60 lbs on me? At 150% of my weight, you're almost guaranteed to have a profoundly different experience than me. I did try to be specific to my own experience in my earlier comments, I didn't intend them as a recommendation to avoid wide rims. EDIT: Forgot to add, I have a tube and a Lezyne Pressure Drive in my jersey pocket for every road race I do. This is important anywhere, but especially when I was racing out in Tennessee, if you flat in a RR, you're gonna be waaaaay out in the sticks. |
Originally Posted by bigfred
(Post 16269024)
I'm really surprised that some of you haven't been replying:
"First season racing, $500 budget = Used Powertap. Far greater gains than you'll find with just about any other $500 wheel set." FWIW: it's much easier to get PowerTaps in the <$300 range these days. |
Originally Posted by grolby
(Post 16269103)
You've got, what, 60 lbs on me? At 150% of my weight,
:( http://i.imgur.com/c0HOD2W.gif |
I'll start a thread re: tubeless and my experiences with them in a day or 3.
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Originally Posted by Racer Ex
(Post 16269246)
I'll start a thread re: tubeless and my experiences with them in a day or 3.
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Originally Posted by thechemist
(Post 16265205)
I forget, did they ever regulate wheel depth for amateur racers? I know there was talk of it earlier this year.
Originally Posted by grolby
(Post 16268878)
The only explanation I can think of for the continued popularity of the Open Pro is Stockholm Syndrome. It's, what, 10 or 15 years old, now? When it first came out I guess it was pretty okay, but that's because it was one of the first "lightweight" double-wall rims out there.
I admit that having a rim supplier 10 minutes away from me was a great thing. I would drive over and pick and choose which rims I wanted to buy. I'd pick them from the middle of the box, do a super coarse check on trueness and the seam, then take the ones I wanted. I rejected a lot of rims. I even exchanged rims after a half-done build because I noticed something wrong with the rim. I no longer have this option. Back in the day Mavic wasn't really producing a great product. Their "light" wheel, the Helium, used a rim so heavy that I couldn't believe they marketed it as a "light" wheel. The rim was probably 100g heavier than the light rims of the day, and similar in profile. Their Cosmic Carbone faired wheel was super flexible, not that strong, and could collect water so fast they ought have used it in desert communities when it rained. Their hubs were poorly designed (super narrow flanges so any wheel you built was guaranteed to be really flexible no matter what the spoke count or rim), they had heavy bars, they chased electric shifting, they had the coolest looking but most flexible crank (a lot of crashes on those cool cranks led to the spider actually bending, something you don't see normally on cranks), etc etc. Their saving grace was their mountain bike rim line up - no one did it better than them for off road. The machined sidewalls worked for mountain bikes, no one made a competitive rim like they did, and even I used them when I built any "ultimate" mountain bike wheel set up. That and they started marketing the first factory built wheels. |
Thanks for that perspective CDR. Certainly for as long as I've been riding, I could never see why an OP was worth twice as much as, say, a Velocity Aerohead. Magic was good at taking people in by pointing out that their rims were welded and machined, I guess. But neither of those have much or anything to do with the quality of a rim. I built my own wheels with Aeroheads, and they got beat to hell because I did a poor build... Subsequent wheels I've had built with the A23, which is basically a wide Aerohead, have been rock solid. The OP rear wheel I had for a while started going bad early on, never stated true or straight and cracked around the eyelets within three years or so.
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1 Attachment(s)
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=352213 |
Originally Posted by Looigi
(Post 16272043)
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=352213 |
Originally Posted by jnobles
(Post 16272490)
Hub suggestion?
http://superloopy.io/images/2007/06/can-of-worms.jpg |
Get whatever you can afford. I have a couple wheelsets I built with Shimano Ultegra hubs. Not great, not terrible.
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For your first season just get any decent set of wheels. Ex's suggestion is a good one tubeless or not because they are cheap. You need two sets of wheels if you race. As long as they are round and true that's all you need. Save your money for when you decide to commit to the sport and you are willing to upgrade the tools of the trade, which goes way beyond wheels.
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Originally Posted by waterrockets
(Post 16269201)
It's no longer novel. Anyone spending time around other bike racers is going to have a picture in their head of what life is like training with power, and how much the various systems cost.
FWIW: it's much easier to get PowerTaps in the <$300 range these days. |
Typically wired, but Pro+ wireless aren't a lot more. Check slowtwitch, beginnertriathlete, eBay, craigslist etc. You can get a new G3 wheelset for under $900 today, and Black Friday is upon us. 25% off is typical. That's how I bought my Quarq.
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Originally Posted by shovelhd
(Post 16273772)
Typically wired, but Pro+ wireless aren't a lot more. Check slowtwitch, beginnertriathlete, eBay, craigslist etc. You can get a new G3 wheelset for under $900 today, and Black Friday is upon us. 25% off is typical. That's how I bought my Quarq.
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I just picked up a Pro+ for $400 on Ebay. Wired are cheaper, obviously. Deals are out there.
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I guess I'll have to look harder then. I've only been seeing deals for wired. I had been looking occasionally for them but searching primarily for campagnolo ones but it appears freehubs are in the $50 range, so I don't necessarily need to be limiting myself. G3's are the only ones that are ant+, right?
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Originally Posted by himespau
(Post 16273936)
I guess I'll have to look harder then. I've only been seeing deals for wired. I had been looking occasionally for them but searching primarily for campagnolo ones but it appears freehubs are in the $50 range, so I don't necessarily need to be limiting myself. G3's are the only ones that are ant+, right?
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No. All G3's are ANT+ wireless. The older, large hub models, Elite+, Pro+, SL+, and SLC+ are all ANT+ wireless. Some of the older models can be converted to ANT+ wireless via a firmware upgrade or G3 guts replacement.
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Originally Posted by rkwaki
(Post 16263527)
Mavic Ksyrium SL
or some handbuilts that will take a pounding and be repairable. |
Originally Posted by himespau
(Post 16273746)
Where are these $300 used powertaps that you speak of? Wired, or are there wireless ones out there too?
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Originally Posted by Blue Belly
(Post 16274065)
Solid advice. Rookie Crits will eat bikes, wheels & skin. Don't blow your wad on a set if wheels that may last a couple weeks.
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