Racer Tech Thread
#2851
out walking the earth
It just occurred to me it might be nice with carbon rims, particularly in bad weather.
#2852
Nonsense
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It'd also be nice in races with technical descending. I melted the brake track on a carbon rim at bear a couple of years back and that's like a single hard turn that required heavy braking.
Last edited by TheKillerPenguin; 11-24-15 at 11:41 AM.
#2853
Senior Member
Also, I'm assuming, then, that you've only ever ridden modern dual-pivot calipers. I've wished for better brakes many times. The current stuff is pretty amazing. But hydraulic discs are still better. I'm not switching over any time soon, I'm not going to disc for my CX bike next season, either. But it seems inevitable at this point that my next road bike will have disc brakes, and I'm not sad about that.
Last edited by grolby; 11-24-15 at 11:59 AM.
#2855
Rides too much bike
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I have done that race both this year and last year riding carbon clinchers and I never had any issues. I also weight probably 20 lbs more than you.
#2856
Nonsense
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DV-46 rims, predecessor of the newer Reynolds Assaults. I know it's not much of a worry nowadays. Really I worry more about running latex in carbon rims on courses with technical downhill stuff. I'm probably just paranoid.
#2857
Rides too much bike
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I swore off latex tubes after I flatted three of them (in three separate instances) just trying to remove them from the damn rim.
#2859
Rides too much bike
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I would argue it is. I have removed many a tube in my life, working for a bicycle tour company, as a bicycle messenger and as a mechanic at a bike shop (Not including the numerous tubes I have removed that were my own). I have never seen a tube get pinched during removal in the way I have seen those vittorias. Note that this is during removal, installation is not really an issue but there is something to be said for a tube that can't survive the removal process.
#2861
Senior Member
Yeah, I don't have a problem with latex tubes, either. And I use the Vittorias as well.
Moot point though, as I'm going tubeless for 2016.
Moot point though, as I'm going tubeless for 2016.
#2862
Rides too much bike
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I only seem to run into issues with taking them out of my tires, might just be the tire / tube combination but removing them inevitably causes small rips where the tire lever has obviously squeezed the tube between itself and the tire. Sure if I had a nice rim / tire combo I could just pull the setup off without tools but that is not feasible sometimes and you just need a lever to get things started.
#2863
Senior Member
This is totally a 41 type question, but I avoid that place like the plague: if I have a frame that is 7005 alloy, made in the 90s, would I expect a modern frame of the same type of alloy to feel largely similar (besides the obvious geometry differences)? which is to say, if I think my ride is harsh, chances are id feel the same about any other frame with the same material? I know, many variables affect ride quality, but figured maybe there could be some apples to apples comparison
#2864
Killing Rabbits
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There have been big improvements since the 90's. My Al CAAD 10 is not harsh IMO. Advanced frame designs, carbon forks and seat posts and 25C tires help a lot.
#2865
OMC
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I don't think you can get an apples-to-apples comparison here. There have been a lot of design changes between then and now, and gains in knowledge of how to manipulate the tubing. Shoot, right now the complaint about current Allez frames is that they're not stiff enough rather than too stiff. I've been through a CAAD9 and 2011, 2012 and 2015 Allez frames (still riding the last two) and all of them have been comfortable on 100-mile rides.
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Chuck
Demain, on roule!
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Chuck
Demain, on roule!
#2866
Senior Member
This is totally a 41 type question, but I avoid that place like the plague: if I have a frame that is 7005 alloy, made in the 90s, would I expect a modern frame of the same type of alloy to feel largely similar (besides the obvious geometry differences)? which is to say, if I think my ride is harsh, chances are id feel the same about any other frame with the same material? I know, many variables affect ride quality, but figured maybe there could be some apples to apples comparison
Also bar/stem can affect comfort. I'm using about as stiff a stem as possible (welded tubular steel) but with a reasonable aluminum bar (FSA Wing Compact) it's fine.
Saddle rails also help, as do posts. Newer frames generally have more post showing, so more flex, than a typical early-mid 90s frame set up. I think this helps with comfort.
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#2867
Senior Member
I agree that a new frame using similar aluminum would ride better. Engineers have figured out ways to soften the ride of the bikes, carbon forks have come a long way, and rear stays, esp seat stays, have gotten super supple. Forks basically determine the front end comfort of a frame, and the new forks are super stiff laterally so they corner like mad but still make the front end comfortable enough for me for 5-8+ hours. Rear stays aren't as nice on alum as on carbon but you get close, and tires and such do help tons. Having ridden Cannondales from the first generation to the 2.7, then jumping to the SystemSix (carbon front end, alum rear end), the SystemSix was incredible.
Also bar/stem can affect comfort. I'm using about as stiff a stem as possible (welded tubular steel) but with a reasonable aluminum bar (FSA Wing Compact) it's fine.
Saddle rails also help, as do posts. Newer frames generally have more post showing, so more flex, than a typical early-mid 90s frame set up. I think this helps with comfort.
Also bar/stem can affect comfort. I'm using about as stiff a stem as possible (welded tubular steel) but with a reasonable aluminum bar (FSA Wing Compact) it's fine.
Saddle rails also help, as do posts. Newer frames generally have more post showing, so more flex, than a typical early-mid 90s frame set up. I think this helps with comfort.
#2868
Senior Member
I'm not sure that swapping out to a Nashbar carbon fork would be worth even the relatively small expense of doing it. I would recommend saving your pennies for CAAD12 or Allez E5 or something similar, and just buying a complete bike. You don't need to get one of the high-end ones, you could probably go for a sub $2,000 bike with 105 or Rival and you'll still have something much better than what you're riding now. In the meantime, the bike you have works fine and you might be better off only spending what you need to for necessary upkeep and maintenance.
#2869
Senior Member
Agreed, it's easy for me to spend too much time nitpicking these little details. The plan has been to move to something new, no point in going overboard with a placeholder/backup.
#2870
Senior Member
seriously. the value you can get these days for <$2k is insane.
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#2871
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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if you're riding a rental and like the smoothness/feel, look first at the wheels and tires. You probably don't need to change out the entire bike.
#2872
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seriously. the value you can get these days for <$2k is insane.
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#2873
Ninny
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I just pre-ordered an etap group through the LBS. :/ I hope it comes in before racing starts. The RD and shifters on my race bike got all banged up when I crashed a few months ago and I don't even know if it's all functional. Depending on the timing I might need to pointlessly move stuff around between different bikes just to have something to race on in the early spring.
#2874
OMC
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FWIW, QBP has it listed on their webpage with zero inventory and a late April get-well date.
__________________
Regards,
Chuck
Demain, on roule!
Regards,
Chuck
Demain, on roule!