View Single Post
Old 12-28-06, 03:16 PM
  #3  
well biked
Senior Member
 
well biked's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,487
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 140 Post(s)
Liked 162 Times in 89 Posts
I use a very large bolt, two very large and thick washers, and a large nut. Different frames will require a different length bolt, due to the length of the head tube, make sure you get the right length for the frame you're working on, taking into consideration how far up the bolt the threads go. All-thread would be a way, I suppose, to have one threaded rod to use on all sizes. I ususally take some fine steel wool and clean up the inside of the head tube in the area where the cups will press in. See if you can get the cups to stay put by pushing them into place by hand, if they'll stay put it makes it easier to get the bolt, washers, and nut into place. A little smear of grease inside the headtube where the cups press in is a good idea, too. The large washers have to be larger than the cups, the washer simply lays flat against the outer edge of the cups. The key thing as you begin to tighten the nut is to watch and make sure the cups are going in straight, once they get started straight they should stay that way but keep an eye on them. Once the cups are nearly pressed in (one cup may hit bottom before the other), watch carefully to see when the cups are fully pressed in, snug it securely but don't put a huge amount of torque on it, you don't want to damage anything. That's pretty much all there is to it. I've done everything from inexpensive caged bearing headsets to Chris Kings this way, it's always worked fine for me. I do own a Park headset cup removal tool, but even that can be fudged with homeade remedies-
well biked is offline