Originally Posted by Andreasaway
On my old SA 3sp I did a total disassembly and used Molyslip and Tri Flow, and it is incredibly smooth. The only problem is that Molyslip is very dark, and stains badly, so I have to be careful when cleaning. sI put a very thin coating of molyslip on the all the gears pins ect when assembling then a coat of tri-flow before closing it up. I haven't noticed much escaping, and I will probably only add tri-flow to the oil port.
I am a huge fan of molyslip. When I owned a car, I put a bit in the trans to smooth things out. On a trip to Mexico, I put a hole in the case, on a terrible dirt mountain road and unaware drove 4000km with no trans oil, before real symptoms appeared. After realizing it, I squirted a bit of 90w in, and drove the 1200km home, with no problems. The car had 400,000km and that was its final drive, but the repaired trans lives on in a neighbours VW.
Yes - I remember that stuff when I first got motorised about 1970 with terrible old motor bikes and hideous worn out cars. I was a penniless student and could barely afford the cost of ordinary oil, let alone molyslip. I read of tests where cars that had been running with molyslip in the oil for a while, were drained of all engine oil and driven ten miles and more with supposedly no illeffects. Sounds like magic to me. Can you still buy it? If you can, I might add a shot of it to the SA SRF3 on the next service.
Edit -
Yes you can still buy it, though haven't seen it on sale in a long while. It's probably overkill really, because the hub is incredibly smooth and slick now. It is definately better and quieter than it was. From what I've read about old AW hubs, there are specimens around that have been in daily use for sixty years or so. I suspect that if they are kept oiled and not just ridden dry for years they will last for decades anyway.
http://www.tribology-abc.com/abc/solidlub.htm#graphite
Some info about moly above, and graphite too, which I have some of in very fine powder for lubricating locks.