Old 07-25-08, 09:17 AM
  #11  
Staggerwing
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Spokes are getting "wound up" as the wheel is being trued. As your truing, you can either grab the spoke near the nipple with a padded pliers, or over tension 1/8-1/4 turn and back off. If you are new, a little tape, or even a simple mark from a Sharpie, will let you see this. After truing, lay the wheel flat on a hard backed, but padded, surface, and grab opposing portions of rim in your left and right hands, pushing the axle into the surface. You don't need to stand on it, but don't baby it either. You will be able to feel it flex a little. This will de-tension the spokes on the opposing side. Let go, turn the wheel 45 degrees, and repeat. Work your way all the way around the wheel, and don't forget the opposite side. Major "snap, crackle, pop" noises indicate windup issues and improperly bedded spokes. May have to re-true after this step.

Its not a bad idea to check with a spoke tension meter. Proper spoke tension is especially important for us Clydes. Most every machine built wheel that I've seen is under tensioned. The spokes on a properly built wheel, will never go completely out of tension as they roll. In addition, even spoke-to-spoke tension makes for a good build. If the rim is straight there is no need for variations beyond 10%. Note: there will be a greater difference between the drive and non-drive sides of the rear wheel.
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