Originally Posted by
DannoXYZ
Let's give PNB some targets in figuring out if his wheel is "properly" built:
1. what spoke tension is acceptable to be "proper"?
2. what spoke tension variation-range?
3. what +/- radial and lateral trueness is "proper"?
4. what load-ranges must the wheel be able to withstand with what degree of run-out?
5. how many miles must the wheel be able to run with what amount of run-out?
If 100 people can agree on the exact numbers for the above, I'll accept that the wheel is "properly" built. Otherwise, it's all a group of varying opinions. Anyone with over +10-years hands-on shop-experience and having built hundreds of wheelsets and raced for 10-years is welcome to add their experinece as well.
You see, for the first 5-years working in a shop and 1st year racing, I was firmly in the oil/grease camp having gotten my hands on so many old wheels with corroded nipples that made truing difficult if not impossible. Then I started noticing trends (wheels aren't binary). After the first 100th wheelset, you begin to see the difference between oil/greased nipples versus SpokePrep/Loctite/Linseeded ones. Same with riding 50k-miles on the same wheelset and comparing it to others of different construction.
Thanks for your comprehensive contribution.
1 or 2 more questions if you donīt mind:
- Uncooked lineseed oil is to any degree effective as thread locker or works just as another oil?
- Whatīs the correct "cooking" procedure? (I guess I should put a container with some oil inside in a boiling water bath, but how long? Something special to care about?)
Once more thanks!